4^ , . 


t\ie  Sbedlogirai 

PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


Purchased  by  the 

Mrs.  Robert  Lenox  Kennedy  Church  History  Fund. 


Division 


j3XJ  42,9 


Section...^. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/historicchurches00butl_0 


FACADE  OF  THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  ZACATECAS 


HISTORIC 
CHURCHES 
IN  MEXICO 

WITH  SOME  OF  THEIR 
LEGENDS 


BY 

MRS.  JOHN  WESLEY  BUTLER 


THE  ABINGDON  PRESS 

NEW  YORK 


CINCINNATI 


Copyright,  1915,  by 
MRS.  JOHN  WESLEY  BUTLER 


First  Edition  Printed  September,  1915 
Reprinted  December,  1915 


TO  MY  HUSBAND 


1. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Foreword 15 

CHAPTER  1 

The  Church  of  Tlaxcala 21 

I'he  Churches  of  Cholula 26 

The  Church  of  Naucalpan,  with  the  Virgin 

of  Remedios 30 

CHAPTER  II 

r HE  Churches  of  Mexico  City 

The  Cathedral 43 

I'he  Monastery  and  Church  of  San  Francisco  53 

CHAPTER  III 

1'he  Churches  of  Mexico  City  (Continued) 
The  Church  of  Santa  Teresa  de  la  Antigua  67 

d'he  Church  of  San  Agustin 75 

I'he  Convent  and  Church  of  Jesus  Maria  79 

CHAPTER  IV 

The  Churches  of  Mexico  City  (Continued) 
The  Church  of  Santo  Domingo  ....  85 

7 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


PAGE 

The  Church  and  Hospital  of  Jesus  Naza- 

reno 91 

CHAPTER  V 

The  Churches  of  Mexico  City  (Continued) 

d'he  Church  of  La  Soledad 97 

The  Church  of  the  Black  Christ  ....  102 

The  Church  of  the  Virgin  of  “The  Cande- 

larita” 104 

CHAPTER  VI 

The  Chapel  on  the  Hill,  Guadalupe  . . iii 

The  Church  of  the  Sacro  Monte,  Ameca- 

meca .128 

CHAPTER  VII 

The  Cathedral  of  Guadalajara 14 1 

rhe  Cathedral  of  Zacatecas 143 

The  Cathedral  of  Puebla  (City  of  the  Angels)  144 

The  Cathedral  of  Cuernavaca 151 

The  Cathedral  of  Morelia 158 

CHAPTER  VIII 

The  Church  at  Taxco,  Guerrero  . . . . 165 

The  Church  of  Tepotzotlan,  Mexico  . . 166 

8 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Legend  of  the  Image  ot  Our  Lady 

of 

!*AGE 

Guanajuato 

173 

The  Valenciana  Church,  Guanajuato 

04 

The  Church  of  San  Antonio,  Coyoacan 

00 

I'he  Church  in  Cuautla 

I 80 

Church  and  Convent  in  Atlixco,  Puebla 

00 

CHAPTER  IX 

The  Church  of  Ocotlan,  I'laxcala 

191 

The  Parish  Church  of  San  Miguel 

de 

Allende,  Guanajuato 

. 

T97 

T he  Church  of  El  Roble,  Monterey 

. 

198 

CHAPTER  X 

1’he  Churches  of  Qjteretaro 

I'he  Church  of  Santa  Rosa 209 

The  Santa  Clara  Church  and  Convent  . . 216 
The  Santa  Cruz  Church,  Queretaro  . . . 223 

CHAP  PER  XI 
The  Churches  ok  Vera  Critz 


The  Church  of  San  Francisco  ....  229 

I'he  Parochial  Church 229 

The  Church  of  San  Agustin 231 

The  Church  of  the  Black  Christ  ....  2 34 


9 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


CHAPTER  XII 
The  Churches  of  Oaxaca 

PAGE 

The  Church  of  La  Soledad 241 

The  Church  of  Santo  Domingo  ....  249 


10 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

Fagade  of  the  Cathedral  of  Zacatecas  . Frontispiece 
Tlaxcala,  First  Pulpit  in  the  Western 

H emisphere 23 

Cholula,  the  Church  on  the  Pyramid  . . 27 

The  Chapel  Royal,  Cholula,  Puebla  . . 31 

Domes  of  Chapel  Royal 35 

The  Cathedral,  Mexico  City 45 

Domes  of  San  Francisco  Church,  Trinity 

Church  in  the  Foreground  ....  51 

Fa9ade  of  San  Francisco  Church  ....  55 

Vestibule  of  the  Old  San  Francisco  Mon- 
astery   61 

A Corner  of  Santa  Teresa  Church  ...  71 

San  Agustin  Church 75 

Church  at  Campo  Florido,  Mexico  City, 

Showing  Effects  of  Bombardment  . 81 

Church  and  Plaza  of  Santo  Domingo  . . 87 

Primitive  Belfry 98 

Virgin  of  La  Soledad  de  Santa  Cruz  . . 105 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


PAGE 

Church  on  the  Hill,  Guadalupe,  with 

the  Stone  Sails 113 

The  Image  Printed  on  the  Tilma  . . . 117 

Interior  of  Guadalupe  Cathedral  . . . . 12 1 

The  Crown  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  . 125 

Sacro  Monte  Church,  Amecameca,  En- 
trance to  the  Cave  at  the  Right  of  the 

Shrine 129 

Image  in  the  Cave,  Sacro  Monte  . . . 133 

Pilgrim  Climbing  on  Her  Knees,  Sacro 

Monte,  Amecameca 137 

Puebla  Cathedral 147 

Image  in  Puebla  Cathedral 150 

Cuernavaca  Cathedral 153 

Entrance  to  Cathedral  Close,  Cuernavaca  . 155 

Via  Dolorosa,  Morelia,  which  Pilgrims 

Traverse  on  Their  Knees  . . . . 159 

Cathedral,  Morelia 161 

Richly  Decorated  Interior  of  Taxco  Church  167 

Valenciana  Church,  Guanajuato  . . . . 169 

'Pepotzotlan  Church 171 

Our  Lady  of  Guanajuato 175 

Railway  Station,  Cuautla,  Formerly  a 

Church 181 


12 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


PAGE 

Church  and  Convent  at  Foot  of  Pyramid, 

Atlixco 185 

Church  of  San  Miguel  de  Allende  . . . 199 

Ruins  of  El  Roble  Church 201 

Virgin  of  the  Rosary  in  Santo  Domingo 
de  Guzman  Church,  Ouer^taro,  one 
of  the  Most  Beautiful  and  Richly 
Adorned  of  the  Modern  Madonnas  . 203 

Santa  Clara  Church,  Querdtaro  . . . . 210 

Elaborately  Carved  Pulpit  and  Columns  of 

Santa  Clara  Church 213 

Rich  Carving  in  Santa  Rosa  Church,  Qiiere- 

taro 217 

Pulpit,  Santa  Rosa  Church,  Queretaro  . . 221 

Church  of  La  Cruz,  Queretaro  ....  224 

San  Benito,  the  Holy  Negro,  with  many 

Votive  Ribbons 235 

Virgin  of  La  Soledad,  with  Robe  embroid- 
ered with  Pearls,  and  wearing  the  Crown 

costing  150,000  pesos 242 

Church  of  La  Soledad,  Oaxaca  ....  243 

Santo  Domingo,  Oaxaca 247 

Interior  of  Santo  Domingo  Church,  Oaxaca  251 
The  “Tree  of  David,”  on  Ceiling  of  Santo 

Domingo,  Oaxaca 255 

13 


FOREWORD 


Mv  purpose  is  to  write,  not  of  the  churches 
of  Mexico,  nor  even  of  the  larger  churches, 
but,  as  the  title  indicates,  of  the  historic 
churches;  that  is  to  say,  the  churches  which 
have  gathered  about  themselves  a certain  his- 
tory, and,  particularly,  a certain  amount  of 
legend  and  folklore.  To  the  Mexican,  and 
doubtless  also  to  the  general  public,  the  chief 
interest  in  these  sacred  edifices  is  due  not  to 
the  date  of  founding  or  the  details  of  archi- 
tectural design  and  construction  so  much  as  to 
the  legends  of  the  titular  saint,  the  richness 
of  the  altar,  the  images  and  paintings  with  the 
stories  peculiar  to  them.  Most  of  the  Mex- 
ican churches  owe  their  importance  and,  in 
some  cases,  their  existence  to  some  special 
image,  mysterious  painting,  or  miraculous 
cross. 

These  churches  were  designed  by  Spanish 
architects  or  by  Mexicans  who  had  learned 
their  art  from  Spaniards.  The  workmen,  ex- 
cepting those  employed  for  the  more  elaborate 

15 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


and  delicate  parts,  were  Indians,  whose  labor, 
though  arduous  and  in  some  cases  enforced, 
was  on  the  whole  a labor  of  love.  Some  of 
the  churches,  together  with  certain  convents 
and  monasteries,  were  erected  at  the  expense 
of  wealthy  men,  either  in  the  lifetime  of  the 
donors  or  from  legacies.  The  number  of 
churches,  taking  the  country  over,  at  one  period 
was  almost  beyond  belief.  Not  infrequently 
the  impression  in  visiting  a town  was  that 
the  space  covered  by  churches  exceeded  that 
given  over  to  the  dwellings  of  the  people. 
Indeed,  more  money  was  invested  in  religious 
edifices  and  other  church  property  than  in 
the  homes  of  the  people.  There  were  at  one 
time  in  Mexico  City  three  hundred  churches 
of  solid  stone  masonry,  equivalent  to  one 
church  for  every  eight  hundred  inhabitants. 

The  decorations  and  the  variety  and  extent 
of  the  ornaments  in  the  older  churches  before 
their  sequestration  by  the  Mexican  govern- 
ment, in  the  year  1859,  were  bewildering. 
Cortez  and  his  successors,  in  order  to  impress 
and  hold  the  natives,  encouraged  an  elaborate 
and  spectacular  service  and  made  much  of 
interior  decoration.  There  were  many 
statues  of  Christ,  the  Virgin,  and  the  Saints. 

16 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Paintings  of  great  value  adorned  the  walls. 
The  altars  were  burdened  with  their  gold  and 
silver  ornaments  and  rare  jewels.  Many  of 
the  churches  have  pillars  and  altars  of  the 
famous  Mexican  onyx,  which  appears  to  be 
growing  more  beautiful  with  the  passing 
years. 

During  the  thirty-six  years  of  my  residence 
in  Mexico,  as  I have  from  time  to  time  wan- 
dered through  the  Mexican  churches,  some 
of  which  I have  endeavored  to  describe  in 
this  book,  I have  found  myself  offering  the 
prayer  that  the  historic  church  of  Mexico 
would  be  led  to  return  to  the  simplicity  and 
fervor  of  primitive  times  and,  in  cooperation 
with  the  evangelical  churches  of  that  country, 
whose  purpose  is  not  rivalry  or  worldly  ambi- 
tion, but  the  establishing  of  the  kingdom  of 
our  common  Lord,  give  to  the  hungry  mil- 
lions of  Mexico  the  bread  of  life.  This,  it  is 
perhaps  needless  to  say,  is  Mexico’s,  as  it  is 
the  world’s  chief  need. 

S.  A.  B. 


17 


I 


CHAPTER  I 


THE  CHURCH  OF  TLAXCALA 
THE  CHURCHES  OF  CHOLULA 

THE  CHURCH  OF  NAUCALPAN, 
WITH  THE  VIRGIN  OF 
REMEDIOS 


CHAPTER  I 


THE  CHURCH  OF  TLAXCALA 

After  burning  his  ships  in  the  port  of  Vera 
Cruz  in  order  to  prevent  his  little  army  of 
eight  hundred  and  eighty-one  men  from  plot- 
ting to  return  to  Spain,  Cortez  began  his  march 
to  the  Aztec  capital  (known  as  Tenochtitlan) 
August  i6,  1519.  The  king  of  the  Totonacs, 
through  whose  country  he  was  obliged  to  pass 
on  his  way  to  the  capital,  received  him  kindly 
and  furnished  him  with  provisions  and  guides. 
The  tribe  pledged  him  allegiance  in  the  hope 
that  through  him  they  would  recover  their 
freedom  from  Aztec  rule. 

Cortez  and  his  followers  continued  their 
journey  westward  under  favorable  conditions 
until  they  reached  the  territory  of  the  inde- 
pendent Tlaxcalans,  who  had  refused  to  pay 
tribute  to  Moctezuma  II,  then  ruler  of  the 
Aztecs.  The  Spaniards  were  received  with 
open  arms  by  the  Tlaxcalans,  because  they 
thought  they  saw  in  Cortez  the  features  of 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


their  god  Quetzalcoatl,  who,  according  to  the 
popular  belief,  was  the  son  of  a virgin  mother 
of  fair  skin,  wore  a long  white  beard  and  was 
clothed  in  flowing  garments  of  white,  em- 
broidered with  a red  cross.  It  is  worthy  of 
note  that  in  this  very  year  of  the  landing  of 
the  Spaniards  on  Mexican  soil,  Quetzalcoatl 
was  expected  to  return  to  the  country.  The 
Tlaxcalans  were  soon  undeceived.  After  four 
terrible  battles  with  the  Spaniards  they  were 
obliged  to  acknowledge  defeat.  Four  years 
later  (in  1523)  a church  was  built  by  the 
Spaniards  to  commemorate  the  conversion 
and  baptism  of  the  four  Tlaxcalan  senators 
in  whom  had  been  vested  the  supreme  power 
of  the  country. 

Over  the  great  stone  font  in  this  church 
there  is  the  following  inscription:  “In  this 
font  the  four  senators  of  the  Ancient  Republic 
of  Tlaxcala  received  the  Catholic  faith.  The 
religious  act  took  place  in  the  year  1520,  the 
Priest  being  Don  Loan  Diaz,  chaplain  of  the 
conquering  army,  and  the  godfathers  Captain 
Cortez  and  his  distinguished  officers.”  At  the 
right  of  the  font  is  the  first  pulpit  used  in 
America.  The  ceiling  of  the  church  is  of 
cedar  and  is  of  fine  workmanship.  The  beams 

22 


TLAXCALA,  FIRST  PULPIT  IN  THE  WESTERN  HEMISPHERE 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


were  brought  from  Spain.  The  traditional 
story  is  that  the  work  on  the  church  was  done 
by  angels  on  a single  night,  and  that  the  bishop 
was  greatly  astonished  when  he  came  in  the 
morning  and  found  everything  completed. 
This  story,  it  may  be  said,  is  popular  through- 
out Mexico,  it  being  related  of  many  sacred 
places  with  the  usual  incidental  variations. 

Another  legend  connected  with  the  Tlax- 
calan  church  is  to  the  effect  that  a certain 
bishop  pursued  by  enemies  saw  the  Virgin 
in  the  branches  of  a pine  tree.  At  a critical 
moment  the  trunk  of  the  tree  opened,  closing 
again  after  he  had  hidden  within  it.  His 
enemies  passed  by  without  discovering  him 
or  seeing  anything  unusual.  When  they  had 
disappeared  the  tree  opened  again  and  let  him 
escape. 

A painting  in  the  church  represents  the 
Pope  in  a triumphal  car  drawn  by  a very 
plump  angel.  They  are  passing  over  the 
bodies  of  reformers,  Luther  and  Calvin  being 
dragged  behind  in  chains. 


25 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


THE  CHURCHES  OF  CHOLULA 

After  his  defeat  of  the  Tlaxcalans,  Cortez, 
with  his  force  increased  to  upward  of  six 
thousand  volunteers  from  among  the  Tlax- 
calans and  the  Totonacs,  marched  westward 
until  he  came  to  the  borders  of  Cholula  where 
he  was  met  by  a large  number  of  the  native 
chiefs  and  their  attendants,  all  of  whom  ap- 
peared friendly.  A native  young  woman  by 
the  name  of  La  Marina,  who  had  become 
Cortez’s  interpreter  and  guide,  discovered  a 
plot  to  destroy  him  and  his  army.  Cortez  at 
once  made  preparations  for  defense.  Firing 
off  his  guns  and  a cannon  he  so  frightened  the 
natives  that  they  ran  in  every  direction.  There 
were  no  horses  at  this  time  in  the  New  World, 
and  those  that  the  conqueror  brought  not  only 
surprised  but  terrified  the  natives,  who  when 
they  saw  these  animals  decked  out  in  fantastic 
trappings  and  their  riders  dressed  in  strange 
uniforms,  believed  that  their  god  had  returned 
and  was  about  to  punish  them  for  their  sins. 
After  shooting  down  all  who  tried  to  escape 
Cortez  renewed  his  march  to  Tenochtitlan 
(Mexico  City). 

At  the  time  of  the  coming  of  Cortez, 
26 


CHOLULA,  THE  CHURCH  ON  THE  PYRAMID 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Cholula  had  about  150,000  inhabitants.  Its 
temples  were  numerous  (the  Spaniards 
claimed  to  have  counted  400  towers),  and  it 
held  a great  company  of  priests.  Indeed  it 
was  regarded  at  this  time  as  the  holy  city  of 
the  Aztecs.  Its  chief  temple  was  the  famous 
pyramid  of  Cholula,  which  still  remains. 
When  it  was  built  no  one  knows.  It  is  com- 
posed of  stone  and  earth,  with  alternate  strata 
of  brick  and  clay.  The  base  covers  an  area 
of  nearly  1,785  feet,  and  its  height  is  170  feet. 
On  the  summit  of  the  pyramid  stood  a great 
temple  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  various 
gods,  among  whom  was  Quetzalcoatl,  already 
referred  to,  whose  influence  gradually  elim- 
inated human  sacrifices,  thousands  of  which 
at  one  period  had  been  offered  annually. 

On  this  summit  of  the  pyramid  there  stands 
a church  built  by  or  under  the  influence  of 
Cortez,  and  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the 
Virgin  de  los  Remedios.  At  the  present  day 
it  is  plain  and  unattractive.  Many  churches 
were  built  in  the  city  of  Cholula,  some  of 
which  are  not  used  now  and  are  falling  to 
decay. 

The  church  of  San  Gabriel  in  the  center 
of  the  city  stands  in  an  immense  enclosure 

29 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


and  was  built  to  accommodate  a vast  con- 
course of  Indian  worshipers.  It  has  lost  its 
former  glory  and  is  going  to  ruin.  The  chapel 
adjoining  has  a vaulted  roof  which  is  square 
in  plan,  supported  by  sixty-four  large  columns 
which  form  seven  naves,  and  these  in  turn 
are  surmounted  by  forty-seven  small  domes, 
as  seen  in  the  illustration.  When  one  enters 
this  building  there  seems  to  be  in  the  bare 
interior  only  long  lines  of  stone  columns  and 
domes.  The  style  was  suggested  by  the  great 
Mosque  of  Cordova  in  Spain. 

THE  CHURCH  OF  NAUCALPAN, 
WITH  THE  VIRGIN  OF 
REMEDIOS 

When  Cortez  prepared  to  sail  from  Spain 
for  the  New  World  he  carried  in  a supply  of 
images  of  the  Virgin  Mary  which  he  set  up 
in  Aztec  sacred  places,  whence  the  idols  had 
been  dethroned.  On  the  so-called  “Noche 
Triste,”  the  night  when  it  seemed  to  the  Span- 
iards they  would  be  driven  from  the  capital 
by  the  Aztecs,  on  account  of  the  loss  by  Cortez 
of  an  important  battle,  an  image  of  the 
Virgin^  known  as  “La  Virgen  de  los  Reme- 

30 


THE  CHAPEL  ROYAL,  CHOLULA,  PUEBLA 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


dios,”  mysteriously  disappeared.  Twelve 
years  later,  according  to  the  story,  this  image 
was  discovered  under  a maguey,  or  century 
plant,  by  an  Indian  (Aztec)  cacique,  or  chief- 
tain, who  took  it  to  his  house  and  placed  it 
on  his  domestic  altar,  where  he  worshiped  it 
as  the  Aztec  “goddess  of  water.”  It  suddenly 
disappeared  and  was  again  found  under  the 
maguey  plant  by  the  cacique,  who  placed  it 
in  a strong  box  and  slept  on  the  lid.  It  dis- 
appeared the  second  time  and  was  found 
under  its  favorite  plant.  The  cacique  now 
communicated  the  matter  to  a priest,  who 
ordered  the  image  to  be  dressed  in  satins  and 
pearls.  Human  hair  was  fastened  to  the  head 
and  a rich  crown  added.  People  in  great 
numbers  came  for  miles  around  to  be  healed 
by  touching  the  figure.  A church  was  built 
for  it  in  1575.  An  adjoining  temple  con- 
tained a stone  image  of  the  Aztec  goddess  of 
water  which  was  worshiped  in  like  manner; 
but  the  worship  of  the  Virgin  of  Remedios 
increased  in  interest  and  the  other  was  finally 
discarded. 

According  to  common  report  the  Virgin 
has  performed  innumerable  miracles.  In 
times  of  drought  it  was  the  custom  to  bring 

33 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  image  to  Mexico  City,  about  ten  miles 
distant  from  the  church,  with  the  Viceroy  on 
foot  leading  a procession  of  some  forty  thou- 
sand to  fifty  thousand  people,  including  all 
the  highest  representatives  of  the  government, 
the  church  and  the  army.  As  the  image 
passed  through  the  cloisters  of  the  convents 
the  nuns  fell  upon  their  knees  in  humble 
adoration. 

Though  the  image  is  less  than  a foot  in 
height  it  was  the  owner  of  robes  said  to  have 
cost  $3,000,000.  These  robes  were  literally 
covered  with  diamonds,  pearls,  and  other 
precious  stones.  In  view  of  its  traditional 
liking  for  the  maguey  plant  a miniature  one 
of  silver  was  constructed  for  it.  It  holds  in  its 
arms  a diminutive  figure  of  the  infant  Christ. 

During  the  War  of  Independence,  in  i8io- 
1820,  the  image  was  chosen  by  the  Spaniards 
as  their  emblem,  and  was  called  “General  of 
the  Royal  Army.”  Hidalgo,  the  patriot 
priest,  leader  of  the  Revolutionists,  on  the 
other  hand,  set  up  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe 
as  the  patroness  of  the  Mexicans.  These  rival 
Virgins  were  mounted  on  horseback  in  full 
uniform.  The  Virgin  of  Remedios  failed  to 
protect  the  Spaniards  or  to  bring  them  vic- 

34 


DOMES  OF  CHAPEL  ROYAL 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 

tory.  Disheartened  and  chagrined,  the  Span- 
iards ordered  that  the  image  be  banished. 
But  the  people  pleaded  so  earnestly  that  it 
was  allowed  to  remain  with  its  church  in 
spite  of  its  lost  prestige.  The  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe  was  declared  victor.  Later,  when 
the  Reform  Laws  were  put  into  effect,  the 
silver  railing,  the  silver  maguey  pedestal,  and 
the  jewels  of  the  Remedios  Virgin  went  into 
the  Government  exchequer.  Afterwards 
these  revenues  aided  in  the  establishment  of 
the  present  system  of  secular  schools.  It  re- 
mains to  be  said  that  the  old  church  is  now 
shorn  of  its  former  adornments  and  has  com- 
pletely lost  its  former  popularity.  In  1912  the 
image  was  brought  to  the  capital  and  received 
in  the  Cathedral  by  the  dean  and  dignitaries 
of  the  church  in  the  hope  of  restoring  peace 
to  the  nation.  On  March  9,  at  seven  o’clock 
in  the  morning,  the  first  function  was  held, 
the  archbishop  officiating  as  celebrant.  At 
ten  o’clock  a sermon  was  preached,  followed 
by  another  at  five.  Then  a procession  filed 
through  the  aisles  of  the  Cathedral  carrying 
the  image.  The  archbishop  walked  under  a 
canopy  of  silk  carried  on  poles  by  officials  of 
the  church  in  citizens’  garb.  For  nine  days 

37 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


these  functions  continued.  The  writer  wit- 
nessed one  morning  the  profound  devotion  of 
many  worshipers,  hundreds  of  people  who 
were  sitting  or  kneeling  on  the  dusty  floor 
intent  upon  repeating  the  prayers  from  their 
books.  The  gates  of  the  chancel  were  closed 
to  keep  out  the  throng,  but  men,  women,  and 
children  stood  on  the  steps  leading  to  the 
altar,  climbed  the  altar  railings,  or  stretched 
their  arms  within  the  rails  endeavoring  if  pos- 
sible to  touch  the  sacred  figure.  A refined 
elderly  gentleman  with  a lady  of  mature  years 
by  his  side  stood  with  his  hands  clasped  upon 
his  breast,  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  image,  the 
lady  reading  to  him  passages  from  a small 
book.  The  tones  of  her  voice  were  subdued, 
full  of  pathos,  and  at  times  trembled  with 
intensity  of  emotion.  She  paused  occasionally 
to  wipe  away  the  great  tear  drops  that  coursed 
down  her  cheeks.  At  times  she  addressed  her 
companion  with  great  feeling,  the  sentence 
often  ending  in  a sob.  He  would  bow  his 
head  in  acquiescence,  still  gazing  with  rap- 
ture upon  the  image  of  the  Virgin.  Doubt- 
less some  relative  or  friend  had  Joined  one 
of  the  armies,  and  this  couple  were  pleading 
with  all  the  fervor  and  intensity  of  their  nature 

38 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


for  the  preservation  of  these  precious  lives 
and  the  restoration  of  peace  to  the  nation. 

On  March  i8  the  image  was  taken  to  the 
station  in  an  automobile  followed  by  an  im- 
mense crowd,  many  of  whom  accompanied  it 
to  the  old  church,  where  it  was  again  placed 
in  its  now  humble  shrine. 


39 


CHAPTER  II 

THE  CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

THE  CATHEDRAL 

THE  MONASTERY  AND  CHURCH  OF  SAN 
FRANCISCO 


CHAPTER  II 


CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

THE  CATHEDRAL 

The  Cathedral  in  Mexico  City,  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  imposing  church  buildings 
in  the  world,  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient 
Aztec  Temple.  The  present  building  was 
begun  in  1573,  following  the  command  of 
Philip  II  of  Spain,  but  the  first  service  was 
not  held  until  1626,  the  actual  consecration 
of  the  building  taking  place  nine  years  later. 
The  building  was  completed  in  1667,  its  cost 
exclusive  of  adornments  being  estimated  at 
$2,000,000. 

Interesting  accounts  are  given  of  the  trans- 
fer of  the  Cathedral  to  the  church  authorities. 
On  January  30,  1656,  the  dean  and  the  chap- 
ter met  and  were  joined  by  the  Viceroy, 
Cadereita  by  name,  his  wife  and  daughter. 
The  Duke  of  Albuquerque,  whose  efforts  had 
helped  greatly  to  push  the  work  of  construc- 

43 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


tion,  in  the  name  of  the  King,  delivered  the 
keys  of  the  building  to  the  chapter.  Follow- 
ing this  ceremony,  the  Viceroy,  accompanied 
by  his  family,  proceeded  to  the  presbytery 
and,  kneeling  reverently,  kissed  its  first  step. 
Each  person  then  took  a broom  and  proceeded 
to  sweep  the  presbytery,  doubtless  in  imita- 
tion of  the  Lord’s  cleansing  of  the  Temple. 
That  the  ceremony  was  largely  symbolic  may 
be  understood  from  the  record,  which  states 
that  on  the  previous  day  the  Viceroy  had 
employed  two  hundred  people  to  do  the  work. 

When  the  Cathedral  was  finally  dedicated 
immense  gifts  for  interior  decorations  were 
presented  by  wealthy  Spaniards,  gifts  aggre- 
gating, we  are  told,  for  gold  and  silver  orna- 
ments alone,  $1,800,000.  Jose  de  la  Borda,  a 
wealthy  miner,  gave  a chalice  covered  with 
gems  valued  at  $300,000.  Later,  when  de  la 
Borda  was  in  financial  straits  he  asked  for  the 
return  of  the  gift,  a request  which  was  granted 
by  the  archbishop.  The  chalice  was  sold  for 
one-third  its  original  cost. 

In  Colonial  times  the  annual  appropriation 
from  the  Royal  t reasury  of  Spain  for  the 
maintenance  of  the  Cathedral  was  18,000 
pesos,  and  one  year  i3,ckx)  pesos  were  granted 

44 


THE  CATHEDRAL,  MEXICO  CITY 


I '7  4 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


by  the  Crown.  The  Duke  of  Albuquerque 
gave  frequent  donations,  as  did  other  higli 
personages ; but  much  of  the  money  needed  for 
maintenance  came  from  the  poor  people,  in 
spite  of  the  fact  that  at  that  time  very  little 
money  was  in  circulation  and  the  Indians 
were  taxed  in  every  conceivable  way.  Even 
now  one  wonders  how  the  expenses  of  so  vast 
a temple  can  be  met,  surrounded  as  it  is  by  so 
many  other  churches. 

There  are  twenty-one  bells  in  the  twin 
towers  which  reach  a height  of  204  feet  from 
the  pavement.  The  largest  of  the  bells  is 
10  feet  across  and  163/2  feet  high  and  weighs 
27,000  pounds.  The  clapper  is  8 feet  long 
and  weighs  500  pounds.  It  was  cast  in  Tacu- 
baya  in  1792,  and  a month  was  required  to 
raise  it  to  the  tower.  It  is  said  its  sweet  tones 
can  be  heard  six  miles  away  on  a clear  day. 
A few  years  ago  other  bells  were  added,  and 
it  was  most  interesting  to  watch  the  people 
examine  the  pulleys,  the  immense  ropes,  and 
other  appliances  used  in  hoisting  them  from 
the  pavement.  Bells  are  rung  in  Mexico  in 
a peculiar  manner:  a rope  is  attached  to  the 
tongue  and  the  ringer  pulls  at  the  other  end. 
Then  he  lets  the  rope  go  quickly,  which  sends 

47 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  tongue  against  the  metal  with  a harsh, 
clanging  sound. 

A number  of  persons  have  committed  sui- 
cide from  the  Cathedral  belfries  by  flinging 
themselves  out  over  the  parapet  and  falling  on 
the  stone  pavement.  Recently  the  authorities 
ordered  that  the  belfries  be  inclosed  with  high 
railings  to  prevent  these  tragedies. 

There  are  seventeen  entrances  on  the  three 
sides  of  the  Cathedral.  Its  length  is  400  feet, 
its  width  more  than  200,  and  its  height  about 
180  feet.  The  high  altar  is  constructed  on  a 
grand  scale.  Green  malachite  pillars  with 
gold  capitals  support  the  dome  above  the 
altar.  The  statue  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Assump- 
tion, the  patron  saint  of  the  Cathedral,  cost 
$3,000,  and  si.\  months  were  required  for  its 
construction.  The  massive  railings  on  each 
side  of  the  nave  are  an  amalgam  of  silver, 
gold,  and  copper,  and  were  made  in  China  at 
a cost  of  over  $1,000,000.  The  weight  is  said 
to  be  twenty-si.\  tons.  At  intervals,  twenty 
fluted  Doric  columns,  18  feet  in  circum- 
ference and  180  feet  in  height,  support  the 
arches  in  the  center.  Seven  ornamented 
chapels  on  each  side  contain  paintings  en- 
cased in  massive  gilt  frames.  The  choir,  en- 

48 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


riched  with  alternate  wood  and  stone  carvings, 
obstructs  the  view  of  the  imposing  high  altar. 
Light  comes  only  from  very  high  windows 
near  the  dome.  The  organ  is  said  to  have 
3,500  pipes.  The  huge  doors  called  storm 
doors  are  twenty-five  feet  high. 

Among  the  numerous  paintings  in  the 
Cathedral  is  one  known  as  the  Christ  of  the 
Cacao-beans  (El  Senor  del  Cacao),  which  was 
purchased  with  the  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  an 
enormous  lot  of  these  beans  when  they  were 
used  as  money  by  certain  Mexican  tribes.  In 
one  of  the  chapels  of  the  Cathedral  is  an 
image  of  the  Virgin  with  face  and  hands  of 
ivory.  In  the  Sagrario  is  a small  image  of  a 
woman,  dressed  in  a hair  shirt,  holding  in 
one  hand  a disciplina,  or  scourge,  and  in  the 
other  a crucifix.  A rosary  hangs  from  her 
girdle. 

One  of  the  characteristic  ceremonies  con- 
nected with  the  Cathedral  and  perhaps  the 
most  spectacular  of  any,  is  the  Lavatorio,  or 
washing  of  the  feet  of  twelve  poor  men  on 
Friday  of  Holy  Week.  A carpeted  space  is 
partitioned  ofif  with  benches.  The  twelve 
barefooted  men  are  dressed  in  coarse  dark 
cassocks.  A silver  basin  and  pitcher  are  car- 

49 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


ried  respectively  by  a deacon  and  subdeacon. 
Two  candles  are  lighted  upon  the  altar  and 
the  venerable  dean  of  the  Cathedral  canons 
intones  a few  scriptural  verses.  Girding  him- 
self with  a towel,  he  then  proceeds  to  wash 
the  feet  of  these  men  in  imitation  of  Christ 
washing  the  feet  of  his  disciples.  The  right 
foot  of  the  first  man  is  placed  in  the  silver 
basin  and  water  is  poured  upon  it  from  the 
pitcher.  The  dean  then  dries  the  man’s  foot 
and  kisses  it;  the  deacon  and  subdeacon  follow 
his  example.  These  three  priests,  still  kneel- 
ing, move  slowly  to  the  next  man  and  con- 
tinue the  ceremony  with  the  remainder  of 
the  men,  who  then  retire  to  the  sacristv  where 
each  one  is  given  a piece  of  money  by  the 
priests. 

Of  all  the  churches  of  the  country,  the 
Cathedral  of  Mexico  is  the  church  of  the 
common  people,  by  whom  it  was  largely  con- 
structed. Even  in  the  days  when  it  was  the 
church  of  the  elite  and  the  fashionable  of  the 
city,  the  poor  were  found  there  in  great  num- 
bers. Women  coming  from  the  market  may 
be  seen  kneeling  on  the  wooden  floor  with 
their  baskets  of  provisions  on  their  arms  or 
at  their  sides.  Teones  in  their  workaday  garb 

50 


DOMES  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO  CHURCH,  TRINITY  CHURCH  IN  THE 

FOREGROUND 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


will  be  found  kneeling  by  the  side  of  men  in 
fashionable  attire.  Poor  mothers  with  their 
dirty  and  unkempt  children  can  be  observed 
squatting  together  in  a heap  with  aristocratic 
ladies  kneeling  near  by.  During  mass  a stream 
of  people  pass  in  and  out  wending  their  way 
between  the  crowd  of  kneeling  worshipers. 

The  Cathedral  has  been  the  scene  of  many 
stirring  incidents  and  important  historical 
events.  It  was  here  that  Ma.ximilian,  who 
was  chosen  by  Louis  Napoleon  to  be  ruler  of 
Me.xico,  was  crowned  emperor,  and  his  wife 
Carlota  empress  of  Mexico.  On  the  night  of 
this  event  the  plaza,  on  whose  west  side  the 
Cathedral  is  located,  assumed  a gala  appear- 
ance, but  the  ancient  church  outstripped  it  in 
brilliancy,  for  from  its  foundation  to  its  high- 
est pinnacle  lamps  were  burned  and  innumer- 
able bells  pealed  forth  their  welcome. 


THE  MONASTERY  AND  CHURCH  OF 
SAN  FRANCISCO 

On  December  27,  1908,  there  appeared  in 
one  of  the  daily  papers  of  Mexico  City  the 
following  paragraph : 

53 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


“Laborers  are  tearing  down  the  thick  walls 
of  the  south  eastern  portion  of  El  Gran  Con- 
vento  de  Mexico,  the  old  Franciscan  monas- 
tery, the  most  venerated,  the  richest  in 
historical  associations,  the  most  zealous  in 
mission  work  among  the  Indians,  the  largest, 
and  in  every  sense  the  most  interesting  monas- 
tery in  the  New  World.” 

These  walls  covered  an  area  of  four  city 
blocks  and  had  sunk  by  their  own  weight 
(some  of  the  walls  being  ten  feet  thick)  a 
considerable  distance  into  the  spongy  subsoil. 
The  monastery  was  built  on  the  site  of 
Moctezuma’s  (the  Aztec  Emperor)  palace, 
the  galleries  of  which  were  supported  on  im- 
mense stone  pillars  and  opened  into  gardens 
with  palms  and  fountains.  'Hie  land  was 
given  by  Cortez  to  the  Franciscan  monks  who 
accompanied  him  from  Spain.  The  building 
materials  were  taken  mostly  from  the  great 
teocalli  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  Huitzilo- 
pochtli,  the  Aztec  god  of  war. 

One  of  the  builders  of  the  monastery  was 
Friar  Pedro  de  Gante  (reputed  son  of 
Charles  V of  Spain),  who  is  credited  with 
having  built  one  hundred  churches  and 
chapels  in  Mexico,  and  having  established 

54 


FACADE  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO  CHURCH 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  first  primary  school  not  only  in  Mexico 
but  on  this  continent. 

The  San  Franciscan  Foundation,  which 
took  upward  of  two  hundred  years  to  com- 
plete, contained  an  immense  church  and  seven 
large  chapels,  with  additional  chapels  in  the 
residences  of  the  Superior  and  other  officials, 
together  with  dormitories  capable  of  accom- 
modating five  hundred  monks,  whose  cells 
extended  over  two  entire  blocks.  The  entire 
Foundation,  which  included  stables,  orchards, 
and  gardens,  was  enclosed  by  massive  stone 
walls. 

How  the  great  Church  of  San  Francisco 
impressed  a visitor  is  shown  by  the  account 
written  by  Madame  de  Calderon,  the  Amer- 
ican wife  of  the  first  Spanish  minister  to 
Mexico,  who  visited  the  church  on  Holy 
Thursday  in  the  year  1840: 

“This  church  of  the  old  Franciscan  Monas- 
tery is  very  splendid  and  the  walls  were  hung 
with  canvas  paintings.  Before  the  altar, 
which  was  dazzling  with  jewels,  was  a repre- 
sentation of  the  Lord’s  Supper,  not  in  painting 
but  in  sculptured  figures  as  large  as  life, 
habited  in  Jewish  dresses.  The  bishop  and 
priests  were  in  a blaze  of  gold  and  jewels.” 

57 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


An  anecdote  of  the  renowned  Viceroy 
Revillagigedo  may  serve  to  show  not  only  how 
strictly  he  performed  the  duties  of  his  office, 
but  also  the  intimate  relation  of  church  and 
state  in  that  period.  The  Viceroy  frequently 
went  about  incognito,  attended  by  one  or  two 
aides-de-camp.  By  his  order  no  monk  could 
be  out  of  his  convent  after  vespers.  Walking 
one  evening  on  the  street,  he  encountered  a 
monk  in  a San  Franciscan  street,  enjoying  the 
evening  with  boon  companions.  The  Viceroy 
deliberately  turned  his  steps  in  the  direction 
of  the  convent.  He  proceeded  at  once  to 
attend  to  the  business  in  hand  and  asked  the 
abbot,  “How  many  monks  have  you  in  your 
convent.  Father?” 

“Fifty,  your  E.xcellency.” 

“There  are  now  only  forty-nine,”  replied 
the  Viceroy.  “Call  their  names,  see  which  is 
the  missing  brother,  and  let  his  name  be  struck 
out.” 

When  the  list  was  called  only  forty-five 
monks  responded  to  their  names.  By  order  of 
the  Viceroy  the  five  monks  were  never  again 
admitted  to  the  convent. 

On  account  of  a plot  against  President 
Comonfort,  disclosed  September  14,  1856,  tile- 
s' 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


monastery  was  suppressed.  A few  months 
later  a monster  petition  was  presented  to  the 
President  asking  that  the  monks  be  allowed 
to  reopen  it.  This  was  granted,  but  with  re- 
strictions. Four  years  later  Benito  Juarez, 
the  leader  of  the  Liberal  party,  with  some  of 
his  staff,  visited  the  convent  and  demanded 
admission.  The  monks  made  no  response. 
Then  with  pickax  and  crowbar  a place  in 
one  of  the  walls  was  opened  to  admit  the 
soldiers.  Crossing  the  garden,  they  made 
similar  openings  in  the  opposite  walls.  Two 
streets  were  then  cut  through  the  heart  of  the 
convent.  One  was  named  for  Friar  Gante 
and  the  other  was  called  “Independencia,”  to 
emphasize  the  liberty  which  the  Reform 
party  had  achieved.  The  property  was 
mapped  out  and  the  lots  were  sold  at  extremely 
low  prices,  the  sum  total  being  less  than 
$350,000.  Stores,  churches,  hotels,  and  dwell- 
ings went  up  as  fast  as  the  purchasers  could 
build.  The  land  alone  is  now  enormously 
valuable. 

One  of  the  purchasers  of  this  property  was 
the  Missionary  Society  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  whose  selection,  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  feet  in  depth  and  eighty  feet 

59 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


in  width,  fronted  on  the  Calle  de  Gante,  just 
off  San  Francisco  Street,  and  opposite  the 
Hotel  Iturbide,  once  the  palace  of  the  Em- 
peror Iturbide.  This  purchase  represented 
about  one-fiftieth  of  the  entire  San  Francisco 
Foundation. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco,  which  joins 
this  property  in  the  rear  and  fronts  on  San 
Francisco  Street,  still  remains,  but  with  its 
faqade  shorn  of  ornaments,  including  the 
statues  of  the  saints,  and  with  trees  and 
shrubbery  taking  the  place  of  the  paved 
atrium,  and  pigeons  occupying  the  niches. 
The  interior  has  been  modernized,  the  elabo- 
rate decorations  of  the  early  period  being  re- 
placed by  a more  up-to-date  display. 

Entering  the  vestibule  of  the  church,  one 
will  see  on  the  right  a broad  flight  of  stairs. 
At  the  head  of  this  stairway  hangs  a large 
crucifi.x  with  a life-size  image  of  Christ,  with 
the  Virgin  on  the  right.  On  Good  Friday 
the  gates  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs  are  opened, 
when  a notice  is  seen  which  reads:  “The  Holy 
Stairs  will  be  open  for  the  devotion  of  the 
faithful  from  six  o’clock  Friday  morning  till 
six  in  the  afternoon.  Those  who  ascend  on 
their  knees  will  gain  the  same  indulgences  as 

6o 


VESTIBULE  OF  THE  OLD  SAX  FRANCISCO  MONASTERY 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


are  conceded  at  the  Holy  Stairs  in  Rome.” 
The  devotees,  after  reaching  the  top,  deposit 
money  on  a tray,  and  walk  down  another 
stairway.  All  day  long  and  far  into  the  night 
fashionably  dressed  men  and  women  climb 
these  stairs  repeating  prayers.  At  night  thou- 
sands of  people  make  the  rounds  of  churches 
again,  believing  that  the  salvation  of  their 
souls  is  made  surer  by  the  number  of  churches 
they  visit  during  these  two  days,  as  well  as 
by  the  number  of  prayers  they  offer. 

The  church  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  ad- 
joining this  building,  occupies  the  site  of  two 
chapels  of  the  old  Monastery  and  was  built 
upon  the  old  foundations,  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Jesuits.  The  facade  is  modern,  the  rear 
walls  being  built  of  fragments  of  the  old 
chapels  referred  to.  On  religious  feast  days 
the  Church  of  San  Felipe  is  filled  with  the 
aristocracy  of  the  city,  whose  carriages  and 
automobiles  line  the  streets  for  blocks  each 
way. 

It  will  be  of  interest  to  recall  that  the  prin- 
cipal theater  in  the  City  of  Mexico  had  its 
origin  in  the  miracle  and  biblical  plays  of  the 
San  Francisco  Monastery,  which  were  per- 
formed to  teach  the  people  the  legends  con- 
nected with  their  worship. 

63 


CHAPTER  III 

THE  CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

(Continued) 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SANTA  TERESA  DE  LA  ANTIGUA 
THE  CHURCH  OF  SAN  AGUSTIN 
THE  CONVENT  AND  CHURCH  OE  JESUS  MARIA 


CHAPTER  111 


THE  CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

(CONTINUED) 

CHURCH  OF  SANTA  TERESA  DE  LA  ANTIGUA 

Of  almost  more  interest  than  anything  con- 
nected with  this  church  is  the  fact  that  the 
first  printing  press  in  the  New  World  was 
established  in  the  corner  house  adjoining  the 
sacred  edifice.  It  was  brought  from  Europe 
at  the  request  of  Bishop  Zumarraga  in  1536, 
by  Viceroy  Mendoza.  The  first  printer  was 
Juan  Paoli  of  Brescia,  Itahq  who  was  sent  to 
Mexico  by  Comberger.  The  first  printed  book 
appeared  in  1536.  The  Spanish  missionaries 
made  good  use  of  the  press,  which  was  active 
nearly  a century  before  a similar  establish- 
ment was  set  up  in  the  United  States.  The 
church  was  built  upon  the  site  of  the  palace 
of  Axayactl,  the  father  of  Moctezuma.  In 
this  palace  were  a multitude  of  idols  to  which, 
though  they  had  no  separate  temple,  various 

67 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


feasts  were  dedicated.  In  this  spacious  and 
magnificent  palace  the  Spaniards  were  be- 
leaguered in  1519.  After  the  Conquest  most 
of  the  idols  were  broken  and  destroyed. 

The  conquerors  held  here  their  first  Holy 
Week  services  after  entering  the  Valley  of 
Mexico.  I'he  church  was  founded  upon  the 
tradition  of  a marvelous  crucifix  and  image. 
According  to  the  authorized  legend,  a gentle- 
man of  noble  family  and  heroic  deeds  brought 
from  the  kingdom  of  Castilla  in  1545  among 
other  sacred  images  one  called  the  Holv 
Crucifix.  It  was  placed  in  a church  in  the 
town  of  Cardonax,  state  of  Hidalgo,  in  1556, 
and  remained  there  till  1621. 

The  image  went  by  the  name  of  the  many 
mining  districts  in  which  it  was  located,  and 
at  last  became  known  as  the  Holy  Christ  of 
Ixmiquilpan,  occupying  a crypt  near  the  high 
altar  of  the  church  there.  The  legend  is  that 
at  the  end  of  sixty  years,  having  been  sadly 
neglected,  it  had  become  very  black  and  dis- 
figured, so  that  it  looked  like  a burned  object. 
The  face  had  lost  its  mouth,  nose,  and  eyes, 
which  had  been  gnawed  away  by  the  mice 
that  infested  the  old  church.  Only  the  beard 
was  left.  There  was  scarcely  anything  but 

68 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  tradition  that  it  had  been  an  image  of 
our  Lord. 

When  the  Archbishop  of  Mexico  visited  the 
mine  in  1615  he  realized  that  it  was  a most 
improper  object  for  veneration  or  worship. 
He  therefore  ordered  that  it  be  buried  with 
the  body  of  the  first  great  person  who  died. 
For  five  years  the  order  could  not  be  carried 
out,  as  no  such  person  died.  Finally,  the  little 
town  of  Ixmiquilpan  was  stirred  by  a great 
sensation.  People  had  heard  sounds  from  the 
church,  such  as  groans,  sighs,  blows,  sobs,  and 
ringing  of  bells.  The  curate,  on  his  rather 
infrequent  visits,  paid  no  attention  to  these 
reports  and  even  ridiculed  them.  Some 
families  became  so  frightened  that  they  moved 
to  another  vicinity.  The  curate  was  at  last 
compelled  to  face  the  situation.  Going  to 
the  church  one  night,  he  himself  heard  the 
strange  sounds.  He  ran  to  the  neighbors  ex- 
claiming, “My  children,  there  are  thieves  in 
the  church,  come  with  me.”  Nothing  unusual 
was  discovered,  and  the  crowd  dispersed  but 
the  curate  remained.  At  last,  while  standing 
near  the  image  and  lamenting  its  unsightly 
condition,  he  thought  he  noted  a change.  A 
neighbor  came  from  behind  the  altar  and, 

69 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


lighting  a candle,  remarked,  “Sefior  Cura, 
there  is  water  on  the  image.”  Both  looked 
carefully  and  simultaneously  exclaimed,  “The 
Christ  is  perspiring;  it  has  renovated  itself.” 
Great  was  their  astonishment  to  find  a per- 
fectly restored  figure  in  the  place  of  the  former 
hideous  object. 

The  people  gathered,  some  awe-struck, 
others  incredulous.  Then  the  eyes  of  the 
image  opened  and  the  lips  moved  as  though 
it  were  endeavoring  to  speak.  The  body 
swayed  toward  the  altar  and  it  was  decided 
that  it  wished  to  be  placed  there.  The  sick 
were  brought  before  it  and  were  healed.  The 
lame  returned  to  their  homes  walking  upright, 
d'he  blind  received  their  sight  and  a dead  per- 
son was  actually  restored  to  life.  The  curate 
hesitated  to  inform  the  Archbishop  lest  he 
be  censured  for  taking  part  in  the  restora- 
tion of  the  image.  A document  was  therefore 
drawn  up  and  over  seventy  testimonies  were 
given  in  proof  of  the  miracle.  The  Arch- 
bishop declared  that  the  image  must  be 
brought  to  Mexico  City  and  placed  in  a suit- 
able shrine.  But  the  people  of  the  mining 
districts  adored  it  so  much  for  its  miraculous 
interpositions  that  they  determined  to  fight 

70 


A CORNER  OF  SANTA  TERESA  CHURCH 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  messengers.  Finally,  when  threatened 
with  excommunication,  they  desisted.  7"he 
worshipers  increased  so  fast  that  a chapel  on 
the  present  site  was  built  and  dedicated  May 
17,  1813.  Though  the  figure  restored  itself 
and  could  heal  all  kinds  of  infirmities,  it  was 
injured  in  the  earthquake  of  April  7,  1845, 
which  came  near  demolishing  the  chapel  and 
almost  destroying  the  image  itself. 

To  the  satisfaction  of  the  faithful,  most  of 
the  parts  were  found  and  taken  to  the  con- 
vent, where  the  nuns  shed  copious  tears  over 
the  misfortune.  However,  a sculptor  was 
summoned  with  numerous  artisans,  and  after 
long  and  most  careful  work,  the  separate  parts 
were  united. 

The  image  remained  in  the  Cathedral  till 
it  was  finally  placed  on  the  restored  altar 
May  9,  1858,  in  its  present  resting  place  in 
the  chapel  of  the  Church  of  Santa  Teresa  de 
la  Antigua,  Mexico  City. 

The  picture  here  presented  gives  only  one 
corner  of  the  chapel.  On  the  high  altar  is 
seen  the  holy  image  under  the  marble  balda- 
chin. Above  the  high  altar  in  the  vaulted 
ceiling  is  a painting  depicting  one  of  the 
events  in  the  renovation  of  the  image.  The 

73 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


second  circle  in  the  vault  is  filled  with  gilded 
pateras.  Three  rows  of  small  electric  lamps 
follow  the  arched  lines,  others  cross  diagonally 
the  cupola  of  the  shrine  on  the  altar. 

On  the  vaulted  roof  of  the  dome,  over  the 
center  of  the  nave,  is  a painting  of  God  the 
Eather,  surrounded  with  the  virtues  of  the 
fifth  celestial  choir.  The  stained-glass  win- 
dows are  superh,  the  allegorical  figures  repre- 
senting astronomy,  history,  poetry,  and  music. 
In  the  spandrels  appear  some  of  the  apostles. 
Along  the  arches  of  the  choir  are  seven  alle- 
gorical paintings  of  the  passion  of  Christ.  I'hc 
Latin  inscription  around  the  circle,  beneath 
the  windows,  reads:  “Vcrbum  caro  factum  est 
ct  liahifaril  in  nobis.” 

In  the  center  of  each  of  the  two  lateral 
altars  is  a very  large  oil  painting,  one  repre- 
senting the  transfiguration  of  Christ,  the  other 
the  ascension  of  the  Virgin.  Finely  wrought 
statues  are  on  all  the  altars.  The  Doric  fluted 
pillars  in  the  four  corners  stand  out  beyond 
colossal  inner  columns.  Eiach  base  is  colored 
in  red  and  gold.  The  cornices  are  gilded, 
and  festoons  of  gilt  flowers  are  looped  at  the 
corners.  The  chapel  is  richly  carpeted,  add- 
ing elegance  to  this  wonderful  shrine — prob- 

74 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


ably,  in  its  entirety,  the  finest  in  the  City  of 
Mexico. 

THE  CITURCH  OF  SAX  AGUSTIN 

The  Church  of  San  A^ustin  is  situated  in 
the  very  heart  of  the  city,  fronting  on  two 
prominent  streets,  with  the  old  atrium  con- 
verted into  an  ornamental  garden  extending 


SAN  AGUSTIN  CHURCH 


the  entire  length  of  the  building.  The  whole 
property  is  inclosed  by  an  iron  fence  whose 
twenty  posts  are  surmounted  by  busts  of  Aztec 
and  Mexican  celebrities.  A fine  statue  of 
Baron  Humboldt,  the  gift  of  the  German 

75 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


colony,  was  placed  in  the  garden  at  the  time 
of  Mexico’s  Centennial  Celebration  in  1910. 

The  original  church  was  built  by  the 
Augustinian  Order  in  the  year  1541,  but  like 
so  many  of  the  older  churches  it  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire  and  was  rebuilt  during  the 
years  from  1677  to  1692.  The  present  edifice 
is  in  the  form  of  a Greek  cross,  the  facade 
still  retaining  the  decorations  of  the  ancient 
building,  and  having  as  its  central  figure  an 
imposing  statue  of  San  Agustin  in  bishop’s 
robes  standing  in  the  midst  of  monks  who  bow 
before  him  in  adoration.  He  holds  in  the 
palm  of  his  left  hand  a miniature  stone  church, 
while  at  each  shoulder  is  an  angel  in  the  act 
of  holding  up  his  cloak,  which  is  painted  to 
represent  the  drop  curtain  of  a theater. 

Formerly  the  Church  of  San  Agustin  was 
one  of  the  wealthiest  in  the  country,  possess- 
ing much  real  estate  and  many  superb  paint- 
ings. It  is  said  that  the  carved  walnut  choir, 
which  contained  two  hundred  and  fifty  stalls 
decorated  with  carvings  representing  scenes 
from  the  Old  Testament,  cost  $240,000. 

When  Benito  Juarez  was  President  of 
Mexico,  the  then  Minister  of  Justice  peti- 
tioned him  to  establish  in  San  Agustin  a 

76 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


National  Library,  which  would  house  among 
other  books  the  collection  from  the  suppressed 
monasteries.  As  all  church  property,  accord- 
ing to  the  Laws  of  Reform,  had  been  taken 
over  by  the  government,  it  only  remained  for 
Congress  to  set  apart  by  formal  action  the 
church  to  the  use  proposed,  which  was  done. 

ddie  choir  was  removed  to  the  National 
Preparatory  School  and  the  magnificent 
paintings  of  the  church  and  convent  were 
transferred  to  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts.  It 
took  fifteen  years  to  prepare  the  building  for 
the  reception  of  the  hooks  which  had  been 
stored  in  the  Church  of  the  Tercer  Orden, 
situated  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  garden.  In 
1909  this  latter  structure  was  renovated  and 
opened  for  night  use,  thus  meeting  some  of 
the  demands  upon  the  main  building. 

One  familiar  with  the  interior  of  San 
Agustin  in  its  ecclesiastic  days  would  hardly 
recognize  it  now.  On  either  side  of  the  en- 
trance are  medallion  portraits.  A partition 
across  the  entrance  separates  the  main  portal 
from  the  reading  room,  w'hich  is  160  feet  long, 
40  feet  wide  and  100  feet  high.  Oak  desks 
with  seats  extend  its  entire  length.  On  the 
balustrade  of  the  choir  is  a colossal  statue  of 

77 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Flying  Time,  balanced  on  a globe  with  an 
iron  pivot  through  the  sole  of  the  left  foot,  so 
strongly  poised  that  none  of  the  many  severe 
earthquake  shocks  have  injured  it.  Three 
flights  of  wooden  stairs  lead  to  a room  over 
the  choir,  the  sides  of  which  arc  lined  with 
bookshelves.  Two  small  tables  with  chairs 
accommodate  the  readers,  while  a large  win- 
dow in  the  rear  gives  ample  light.  The 
chapels  on  each  side  of  the  nave  have  been 
turned  into  alcoves  with  bookshelves.  Si.\- 
teen  statues  representing  some  of  the  fathers 
of  learning  stand  on  pedestals  at  the  base  of 
the  supporting  columns — among  them  Con- 
fucius, Isaiah,  Homer,  Plato,  Paul,  Aristo- 
phanes, Cuvier,  and  Humboldt. 

The  collection  of  books,  while  not  large, 
contains  many  volumes  both  valuable  and 
rare.  There  are  immense  volumes,  every  one 
of  whose  letters  was  made  with  a pen.  One 
book  contains  the  autograph  signatures  of  the 
soldiers  of  Cortez.  A roll  of  deer-skin  shows 
the  original  picture-writing  of  the  Aztecs.  It 
may  be  added  that  about  twenty  thousand 
persons  annually  avail  themselves  of  the  privi- 
leges of  this  library  which  was  once  a church. 


78 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


THE  CONVENT  AND  CHURCH  OF  JESUS  MAUfA 

The  Convent  of  Jesus  Maria  was  founded 
in  1577  by  two  men  who  purposed  that  only 
the  descendants  of  the  conquerors  should  he 
the  inmates.  One  of  the  early  nuns  was  said 
to  be  the  daughter  of  Philip  II  of  Spain  and 
a niece  of  Archbishop  Pedro  Moya  de  Con- 
treras, Viceroy  of  Mexico  and  first  Inquisitor 
General.  Large  sums  for  the  support  of  the 
convent  were  given  from  the  Royal  Treasury 
of  Spain  and  the  Viceroyal  Exchequer  of 
Mexico. 

From  the  dome  hangs  an  old-fashioned 
chandelier  of  solid  metal  of  great  weight. 
Candles  are  in  the  sockets,  but  electric  lamps 
now  hang  from  the  pendants.  Under  a very 
fine  grilled  balcony  from  which  the  nuns  used 
to  hear  mass  is  the  entrance  to  a small  chapel. 
In  the  background  is  a miniature  of  the  Virgin 
at  the  grotto  of  Lourdes,  with  a female  figure 
kneeling  in  the  foreground  holding  a rosary 
offering. 

The  church,  which  was  renovated  as  late  as 
1900,  has  its  dome  and  ceiling  covered  with 
small  paintings  inclosed  in  gilt  moldings 
\vhich  fill  squares,  spandrels,  and  half-circles, 

79 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


interspersed  with  gilt  pateras.  The  stained- 
glass  doors  and  windows  are  of  exquisite 
coloring. 

The  Church  of  Jesus  Maria  has  for  its 
patron  saint,  “El  Nino  Perdido”  (“The  Lost 
Child”),  a painting  back  of  the  altar  repre- 
senting the  child  Jesus  before  the  doctors  in 
the  temple.  On  the  side  altar  is  the  image 
of  La  Santisima  Virgen  del  Rayo.  Accord- 
ing to  the  legend,  at  two  o’clock  of  August 
1 8,  1807,  during  a terrific  thunderstorm,  this 
figure  was  seen  to  change  its  position,  to  smile 
and  otherwise  manifest  a lively  interest,  with 
the  result  that  the  people  give  the  Virgin 
credit  for  saving  the  church  on  that  occasion. 
Many  miraculous  cures  are  attributed  to  her. 
Just  a century  after  this  noted  thunderstorm 
she  was  crowned  with  solemn  ceremonies. 

At  a service  held  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
second  of  November,  1910,  “All  Saints’  Day,” 
at  the  base  of  the  large  altar  there  rested  a 
catafalque  covered  with  black  velveteen  with 
a band  of  white  stitched  upon  it  in  the  form 
of  a cross.  Black  cloth  curtains  hung  about 
the  church,  covering  all  the  images.  A large 
painting  on  canvas  stretched  across  the  main 
altar  representing  people,  life-size,  standing 

80 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


up  to  their  waists  in  purgatorial  flames.  Some 
were  chained  by  their  wrists.  Two  angels 
stood  in  the  midst,  each  clasping  with  one  hand 
the  hand  of  one  of  the  persons  and  with  the 
other  pointing  heavenward.  Burning  candles 


CHURCH  AT  CAMPO  FLORIDO,  MEXICO  CITY, 
SHOWING  EFFECTS  OF  THE  BOMBARD- 
MENT DURING  THE  "'TRAGIC  TEN 
days"  of  1910 

behind  the  picture  made  the  flames  appear 
highly  realistic. 

Purgatory  is  a very  real  place  to  the  average 
Mexican.  The  profits  of  a certain  business 
house  in  Mexico  City  were  devoted,  during 
sev^enty-five  years,  to  the  payment  of  masses 

81 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


for  the  soul  of  the  founder.  It  is  not  un- 
common, even  now,  in  country  parishes  to  find 
on  church  doors  notices  of  a “Raffle  of  Souls,” 
by  which  is  meant  that,  on  the  payment  of  a 
certain  sum,  a ticket  is  issued  which  guarantees 
the  owner  a chance  to  win  the  main  prize  in 
the  drawing — this  prize  being  masses  for  the 
escape  of  a soul  from  purgatory. 


82 


CHAPTER  IV 

THE  CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

(CONTL\UED) 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO 

THE  CHURCH  AND  HOSPITAL  OF  JESUS 
NAZARENO 


CHAPTER  IV 


THE  CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

(CONTINUED) 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO 

The  Church  of  Santo  Domingo,  though 
one  of  the  oldest,  is  still  one  of  the  largest  and 
finest  in  the  capital  and  is  attended  by  a ma- 
jority of  the  Spanish  residents.  It  contains 
a magnificently  carved  and  decorated  altar 
and  some  fine  old  paintings.  An  image  of 
Christ  reclines  at  full  length  in  a glass  case  in 
one  of  the  side  altars.  The  hand  is  bandaged, 
and  the  feet,  which  project  from  under  the 
coverlet,  are  fashioned  in  dark  colored  ivory 
with  extremely  white  nails.  Women  and  chil- 
dren, and  even  men,  have  kissed  these  pro- 
truding feet  so  often  that  they  are  gradually 
wearing  away.  Another  image  of  Christ, 
nude,  save  for  a scarf  about  the  loins,  repre- 
sents him  in  a sitting  posture,  thorn-crowned 
and  blood-stained,  the  whole  attitude  being 
one  of  deep  dejection. 

85 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


On  the  eighth  of  September  the  Spanish 
celebrate  here  the  Mass  of  the  Virgin  of  Cova- 
donga.  The  renown  of  this  Virgin  is  due  to 
the  historic  battle  won  by  Pelayo,  King  of 
the  Asturias,  over  the  Moors.  The  battle  was 
fought  at  the  entrance  to  the  cave  of  Cova- 
donga,  the  Moors  hurling  rocks,  arrows,  and 
darts  against  the  mouth  of  the  cave  where  the 
King  and  his  followers  were  sheltered.  The 
power  of  the  Virgin,  the  legend  reads,  was 
on  the  side  of  the  Spaniards,  so  that  the  Moor- 
ish missiles  recoiled  upon  the  Moors  them- 
selves, causing  great  havoc  in  their  ranks.  The 
Christians  then  issued  from  their  hiding  place 
and  completely  routed  the  enemv. 

The  statue  of  the  Virgin  of  Covadonga, 
venerated  in  Santo  Domingo,  is  made  of  wood 
and  is  a replica  of  the  one  in  Spain.  It  is  a 
little  over  three  feet  in  height,  including  a 
pedestal  and  a half  moon  of  solid  silver.  The 
dress  is  made  of  gold  and  silver  brocade  with 
a mantle  of  garnet-colored  satin  brocaded  in 
silver  falling  from  the  shoulders  over  the  back. 
A mantilla  of  white  Spanisli  lace  is  held  in 
place  by  a diadem  of  gold,  studded  with 
jewels,  resting  upon  her  head.  In  her  right 
hand  is  a golden  scepter,  and  in  the  left  the 

S6 


CHURCH  AXD  PLAZA  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


miniature  image  of  the  Christ-child,  dressed 
in  costly  material. 

On  one  occasion  the  writer  was  present 
when  the  Apostolic  Delegate,  Monsignor 
Ridolfi,  officiated,  assisted  by  other  high  func- 
tionaries. All  were  magnificently  attired  in 
ceremonial  dress  (rather  than  the  usual 
ecclesiastical  garments)  adorned  with  epau- 
lets, gold  braid  trimmings,  and  medals,  and 
with  swords  at  their  sides.  Monsignor  Ridolfi 
did  not  take  a position  before  the  altar.  The 
breviary  from  which  he  read  the  responses 
was  held  and  even  the  leaves  were  turned  for 
him  by  assistants.  At  the  mass  the  archbishop 
and  other  officials  were  arrayed  in  superb 
chasubles  heavily  embroidered  in  raised 
dowers  of  gold  thread,  under  which  was  a 
tunic  of  Spanish  lace.  A number  of  times 
during  the  service  the  vestures  of  the  Apos- 
tolic Delegate  were  changed.  One  priest 
would  remove  a vestment  while  another 
quickly  replaced  it,  the  Delegate  all  the  while 
standing  at  his  place  in  full  view  of  the  con- 
gregation. The  bowing  and  prostrating  of  the 
assistants  appeared  to  honor  him  supremely. 

The  Dominicans,  whose  founder  was  hon- 
ored in  the  Church  of  Santo  Domingo,  were 

89 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


responsible  for  the  founding  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion in  Mexico  in  1736,  in  headquarters  oppo- 
site the  church,  the  latter  occupied  by  the 
tribunal.  The  burning-place  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion was  on  the  ground  which  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Alameda,  a well-known  small  park  in 
the  center  of  the  city.  The  first  burning  was 
in  1574,  when  twenty-one  “pestilential  Luther- 
ans” were  burned  alive.  The  braser  was  a 
large  platform  of  stone  masonry  with  stakes 
or  posts  to  which  the  victims  were  fastened,  in 
full  view  of  the  populace.  After  the  work 
was  done  the  ashes  were  thrown  into  the 
marsh,  then  located  near  the  Church  of  San 
Diego,  which  is  still  standing  at  the  west  end 
of  the  Alameda.  I n one  of  the  Santo  Domingo 
buildings  there  was  a courtyard  with  twenty 
arches  and  nineteen  cells,  where  the  prisoners 
were  removed  from  time  to  time  that  they 
might  enjoy  the  sun,  but  where  they  could 
not  communicate  with  nor  see  one  another. 
The  Inquisition  in  Mexico  was  abolished  in 
1821. 


90 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


THE  CHURCH  AND  HOSPITAL  OF  JESUS 
NAZARENO 

The  buildings  which  constitute  the  Church 
and  Hospital  of  Jesus  Nazareno  were  founded 
in  159;^  with  funds  which  Cortez  left,  and  on 
the  site  where  he  is  believed  to  have  first  met 
Moctezuma,  the  Aztec  emperor.  The  land 
was  a grant  by  Charles  V of  Spain. 

The  church  is  long,  with  two  aisles,  but 
without  a nave,  and  there  are  no  columns  in 
the  main  building.  The  arches  of  the  vaulted 
roof  meet,  being  supported  by  fluted  pilasters 
in  the  side  walls.  In  general,  the  church  has 
suffered  little  from  renovators.  The  old  altar 
and  the  large  tabernacle  are  still  in  place. 
Above  the  altar  steps  is  the  monstrance 
covered  in  white  satin  and  gold.  Near  the 
ceiling,  under  a curtained  canopy,  is  an  image 
of  Christ  with  the  pathetic  face  capped  by  a 
dingy  brown  wig,  under  the  customary  crown 
of  thorns.  An  immense  glass  case  over  one  of 
the  altars  contains  the  image  of  Christ  on  the 
cross  and  is  called  “Our  Lord  of  the  Vindi- 
cated,” and  from  a tablet  at  the  base  we  learn 
that  on  the  night  of  November  7,  1732,  there 
was  a great  earthquake  and  drops  of  blood 

91 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


exuded  from  the  wounded  side  of  the  Christ. 
When  the  blood  was  wiped  off  there  appeared 
numerous  little  red  crosses.  I'his  image  was 
held  in  high  regard  by  the  Conde  del  Valle  de 
Orizaba,  who  lived  in  the  magnificent  blue- 
tiled  house,  still  in  perfect  condition,  now  the 
home  of  the  Jockey  Club.  The  Conde  pre- 
sented the  image  to  the  Church  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, but  it  was  later  placed  in  its  present 
position,  where  it  is  covered  with  silver  objects 
attesting  its  miracle-working  power. 

Upon  another  altar,  in  dark  and  ancient 
attire,  is  a small  figure  called  “Our  Lady  of 
the  Bullet,”  which  is  held  in  profound  venera- 
tion. It  was  the  patron  saint  in  the  home  of 
a poor  family  living  long  ago  in  Ixtapalapa, 
a suburb  of  Mexico  City,  d'he  husband 
charged  his  wife  with  infidelitv.  When  he 
raised  his  gun  to  shoot  her  she  fled  to  the 
image,  which  received  the  bullet  intended  for 
her.  This  incident  convinced  the  husband 
that  his  wife  was  innocent,  and  ever  after  the 
couple  lived  happily  together. 

Men  of  note  are  burietl  here,  d'wenty-five 
mortuary  tablets  may  be  counteil  in  the  walls, 
but  none  are  to  he  discovered  in  the  floor. 
Some  of  these  tablets  are  from  eight  to  ten 

92 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


feet  high  and  from  four  to  six  feet  wide,  and 
eost  large  sums.  Sitting  midway  in  the  church 
one  has  the  sensation  of  being  in  a pantheon. 

At  one  time  the  bones  of  Cortez  rested  here, 
being  interred  in  the  marble  sepulcher  in  the 
wall  at  the  right  of  the  main  altar.  This  was 
in  accordance  with  the  will  of  Cortez,  which 
provided  that  should  he  die  in  Spain  his  re- 
mains after  ten  years  were  to  be  brought  to 
Mexico.  He  died  in  1547,  but  it  was  not 
until  1562  that  his  wishes  respecting  his  body 
were  carried  out.  His  remains  were  first  de- 
posited in  the  Church  of  San  Francisco  at 
Texcoco.  Seven  years  later  they  were  trans- 
ferred to  the  monastery  of  San  Francisco, 
Mexico  City,  and  then,  in  1794,  to  the  Church 
of  Jesus  Nazareno.  When  the  Hidalgo 
Revolution  in  the  early  part  of  the  nineteenth 
century  took  place,  so  much  hatred  against 
everything  Spanish  was  engendered  that  Cor- 
tez’s remains  were  removed  to  Spain  and 
finally  buried  in  Italy. 

The  Hospital  is  contained  in  two  buildings 
of  the  same  size  and  appearance  with  double 
patios,  or  open  courts,  after  the  Spanish  style. 
The  wide  rooms  and  quaint  corridors  over- 
look luxuriant  trees  and  shrubbery.  If  not  the 

93 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


first  hospital  in  America,  this  is  the  first  of 
which  there  are  reliable  records.  The  trained 
attendants  and  scientific  methods  of  to-day 
add  efficiency  to  its  historical  prestige.  The 
Sisters  of  Charity  of  the  order  of  “Las 
Antiguas  de  los  Desamparados  (Forsaken)” 
are  in  charge.  They  are  from  Spain  and 
greatly  venerate  a picture  of  the  Virgin  of 
this  name. 

The  hospital  is  maintained  by  revenues 
from  property  conveyed  to  Cortez  by  the 
Spanish  Crown  and  by  him  to  the  hospital. 
Many  attempts  by  government  and  individuals 
to  break  the  will  of  Cortez  have  proved  futile, 
the  document  being  sustained  by  the  Me.xican 
courts  as  late  as  1885.  The  property  is  under 
a special  corporation,  and  the  Italian  Dukes 
of  Ferranova  e Montaleone  still  have  the 
right  to  name  an  agent  to  supervise  the 
hospital. 


94 


CHAPTER  V 

THE  CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

(Continued) 

THE  CHURCH  OF  LA  SOLEDAD 
THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  BLACK  CHRIST 

THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  VIRGIN  OF  'Ta 
CANDELARITA'" 


CHAPTER  V 


THE  CHURCHES  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

(CONTINUKD) 

THE  CHURCH  OF  LA  SOLEDAD 

The  Virgin  of  Solitude  who  is  worshiped 
in  this  church  is  a small  figure  dressed  in 
robes  of  black  velvet  embroidered  in  flowers 
and  vines  of  gold  thread. 

The  miracles  attributed  to  this  Virgin  are 
evidenced  by  many  testimonials  displayed  on 
the  walls  at  both  sides  of  the  entrance  and 
over  the  doors.  These  are  in  the  form  of 
paintings  on  common  tin  and  are  of  the  poorest 
execution,  the  inscriptions  themselves  being 
crudely  printed  and  in  very  poor  Spanish. 
All  sorts  of  ailments  are  represented  as  hav- 
ing been  cured  by  the  Virgin,  sometimes  after 
treatment  and  often  without  any  medical 
attendance.  Many  accidents  are  depicted, 
such  as  a man  under  the  wheels  of  a coach, 
attacked  by  bandits,  or  a woman  falling  head- 
foremost from  a high  elevation.  These  pic- 
tures fill  hundreds  of  square  feet,  showing 

97 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


innumerable  catastrophes  averted  through  the 
intervention  of  the  Virgin  of  La  Soledad.  As 
these  small  tin  paintings  cover  the  walls  from 


PRIMITIVK  BI'.LFRV 


base  to  ceiling  (aside  from  hundreils  that  have 
necessarily  been  removed),  one  can  form  some 
idea  of  the  thousamls  of  miracles  attrihuteil 
to  this  Virgin. 


98 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


A narrow  curved  passage  leads  from  the 
main  building  to  a room  where  are  sold 
rosaries,  tracts,  and  pictures.  These  walls  are 
also  filled  with  crude  testimonials.  One  of 
very  recent  date  shows  an  isolated  spot  in  a 
romantic  ravine.  A mountain  is  on  one  side, 
at  the  base  of  which  lies  a huge  bowlder.  A 
man  in  white  shirt  and  trousers  and  with  wide 
brimmed  sombrero  stands  with  his  gun  aimed 
at  the  great  rock.  The  Virgin  appears  at 
the  left.  A man  in  uniform  and  another  in  a 
white  suit  stand  at  the  right  with  hands 
spread  out,  showing  fear  and  amazement. 
The  explanation  is  that  the  man  in  uniform, 
an  officer,  was  taken  prisoner  in  Durango  by 
the  rebel  forces.  When  they  stood  him  up 
against  the  bowlder,  he  implored  the  protec- 
tion of  the  Virgin  of  Soledad.  She  quickly 
thrust  him  to  one  side  and  the  ball  entered 
the  rock.  The  writer  asked  the  woman  in 
charge  if  these  paintings  could  be  bought. 
“O,  no,”  she  replied,  “they  are  votive  offer- 
ings.” Pointing  to  one  recently  received,  she 
continued,  “This  woman  fell  in  a fit.  While 
in  the  terrible  throes  of  suffering  the  Virgin 
appeared  and  the  woman  was  immediately 
healed,  hence  this  testimony  of  gratitude.” 

99 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Like  all  the  others  it  is  a personal  acknowl- 
edgment of  the  Virgin’s  assistance.  In  a 
small  glass  case  on  the  table  stood  a very  dark, 
highly  polished  figure  of  the  Virgin.  Noting 
the  exquisite  carving  of  the  features  and  the 
embroidered  designs  on  the  robes,  I remarked, 
“I  have  never  seen  anything  like  this.”  She 
exultantly  exclaimed:  “O,  no,  it  is  the  only 
one  in  Mexico.  It  is  carved  wood  in  its  nat- 
ural color  and  was  made  by  a prisoner  in  San 
Juan  de  Ulua,  Vera  Cruz.”  On  both  sides 
of  the  main  altar  on  the  wall  there  hang  large 
frames  like  bulletin  boards  upon  which  arc 
placed  these  votive  offerings  in  fanciful  de- 
signs, hundreds  of  silver  or  gold  figures  repre- 
senting various  parts  of  the  human  body  and 
even  bodies  of  animals,  which  show  the  kinds 
of  miracles  wrought.  At  the  right  of  the 
entrance  to  the  church,  in  a large  frame,  are 
four  embossed  figures.  In  the  foreground  is 
an  image  of  Christ  just  taken  from  the  cross. 
Mary  the  Mother,  with  hands  clasped  and  in- 
tense sorrow  depicted  on  her  face,  is  on  her 
knees  bending  over  him.  The  other  .Mary, 
in  an  agony  of  grief,  clasps  his  feet.  John 
kneels  at  the  head,  holding  a handkerchief 
and  weeping.  The  group  is  finely  executed, 

lOO 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  features  and  figures  having  none  of  the 
repulsive  aspect  so  often  found  on  images  in 
Mexican  churches,  and  it  was  all  the  more 
attractive  as  the  janitor  had  just  given  it  a 
good  scrubbing. 

On  each  side  of  the  aisles,  facing  the  short 
nave,  are  images  on  pedestals.  The  one  called 
“The  Christ  of  the  Column”  shows  the  back 
of  the  statue  terribly  lacerated  as  with  a 
scourge.  The  tassels  upon  the  robe  worn  by 
the  figure  are  kissed  by  hundreds  daily,  so 
they  are  now  completely  blackened.  San 
Antonio  and  his  faithful  dog  stand  on  another 
pedestal,  with  the  bread  for  the  poor.  The 
floor  is  covered  with  cement,  but  even  this  has 
broken  away  in  places,  owing  to  the  enormous 
crowds  that  are  continually  passing.  Two 
handsome  fonts  of  onyx  for  the  holy  water 
rest  on  pedestals. 

In  former  times  bandits  frequented  this 
church  and  criminals  were  in  the  habit  of 
wearing  a scapular  with  the  image  of  the 
Virgin  of  Solitude.  The  following  incident  is 
well  accredited:  when  General  Santa  Ana 
was  dictator  of  Mexico  a great  sensation  was 
created  by  the  report  that  bandits  had  as- 
saulted the  train  of  wagons  going  to  Vera 

lOI 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Cruz  and  that  a considerable  amount  of 
money  had  been  stolen.  The  police  tried  to 
apprehend  the  culprits  but  without  success. 
The  governor  of  the  district,  however,  hap- 
pened to  discover  the  name  of  the  person  who 
paid  for  the  masses  the  day  previous  to  the 
robbery.  In  course  of  time  it  was  revealed 
that  this  man  was  the  one  who  led  the  bandits. 

On  the  very  plain  facade  of  the  church  is 
a stone  image  of  the  Virgin,  with  a sorrowful, 
downcast  face.  She  is  costumed  in  a wide 
skirt  and  flowing  cape.  The  Spanish  inscrip- 
tion reads:  “None  may  pass  this  place  without 
affirming  upon  their  life  that  Mary  was  con- 
ceived without  original  sin.” 

THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  BLACK  CHRIST 

This  church  was  founded  by  the  Domin- 
ican Order  in  the  year  1690.  It  is  a small 
edifice,  wedged  in  between  large  stone  build- 
ings. It  has  a single  dome  and  one  high  altar. 
The  street  on  which  the  church  is  located  is 
known  as  Porta  Coeli  (Gate  of  Heaven).  It 
is  hardly  that.  A market  known  as  the 
“thieves  market”  is  opposite  the  church,  and 
the  large  majority  of  the  people  who  attend 

102 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  service  are  poverty-stricken  and  unclean. 
Hundreds  of  them  every  day  kneel  before  the 
image  of  the  Christ,  which  is  black,  so  de- 
signed, doubtless,  to  attract  the  dark-skinned 
Indians.  (There  are  two  other  similar  black 
images  in  the  Republic.) 

On  the  image  of  Christ  appears  the  follow- 
ing inscription:  “I'he  Lord  of  Poison,  which 
is  Venerated  in  the  Street  of  Porta  Coeli, 
.Mexico  City.”  According  to  the  story  pub- 
lished by  the  church  authorities,  an  arch- 
bishop who  resided  in  Mexico  many  years  ago 
had  enemies  who  wished  to  take  his  life.  He 
had  in  his  home  a beautifully  carved  ivory 
image  of  Christ.  Every  morning  he  would 
kiss  its  feet  and  implore  its  protection.  His 
enemies  contrived  to  put  poison  on  the  feet 
of  this  image,  with  the  expectation  that  when 
he  kissed  them  his  death  would  ensue.  When 
the  archbishop  went  to  the  crucifix,  as  was 
his  custom,  he  found  the  image  had  turned 
black  from  the  effects  of  the  poison — a mirac- 
ulous interposition  which  saved  his  life. 

On  November  lo,  1905,  the  position  of  the 
image  was  changed  to  an  altar  on  the  left  of 
the  entrance  to  the  church,  the  announcement 
reading:  “Solemn  Service  in  the  Church  of 

103 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Porta  Coeli  next  Friday,  the  loth,  when  the 
altar  dedicated  to  the  Sehor  del  Veneno 
(poison)  will  be  blessed  by  His  Excellency, 
the  Sehor  Apostolic  Delegate.”  Great  drops 
of  sweat  are  said  to  appear  on  this  image  from 
time  to  time,  which  is  believed  to  be  a miracle. 

THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  \’IRC;iN  OF  -THE 
CANDELARFTA” 

How  Some  Miraci.es  Haepen 

Ix  one  of  the  daily  papers  of  .Mexico  City, 
in  May,  1912,  appeared  the  following: 

“Near  the  heart  of  Mexico  City,  in  a busi- 
ness locality,  and  wedged  in  between  tenement 
houses,  is  a small  church  fifty  meters  square. 
Here  is  seen  the  image  of  the  Virgin  dressed 
in  cloth  of  gold,  while  the  image  of  the  child 
Jesus  wears  a costly  robe. 

“On  the  morning  of  the  first  of  May,  1912, 
the  curate  of  this  church,  returning  from  the 
Archbishop's  residence,  entered  the  little 
church  for  his  customary  devotions.  To  his 
great  surprise  he  found  the  image  swaying. 
At  first  he  thought  it  must  be  only  his  imag- 
ination. Calling  the  sacristan  and  some  neigh- 
bors, it  proved  to  be  a fact.  The  image 

104 


VIRGIN  OF  LA  SOLEDAD  DE  SANTA  CRUZ 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


swayed  as  though  rocking  an  infant  to  sleep. 
The  movements  began  at  ten  in  the  morning 
and  continued  till  three  in  the  afternoon,  from 
the  second  to  the  fifth  day  consecutively. 

“The  following  Sunday  morning,  during 
mass,  the  swaying  was  renewed.  The  congre- 
gation became  so  excited  over  the  strange 
spectacle  that  the  curate  was  compelled  to  call 
for  the  assistance  of  the  police.  The  follow- 
ing day  the  Archbishop  sent  a representative 
to  investigate  the  phenomenon.  The  image 
was  taken  down  to  see  if  it  was  in  normal 
condition.  Nothing  was  discovered  to  cause 
the  movements,  but  when  the  image  was  re- 
placed the  swaying  began  again.  The  repre- 
sentative returned  to  the  Archbishop  and  re- 
ported the  above  facts.  The  curate  asked  the 
prelate  if  he  should  close  the  church.  The 
reply  was  that  it  would  be  better  to  keep  it 
open,  in  order  that  the  people  might  have  the 
satisfaction  of  witnessing  it.  One  woman  in 
particular  was  so  overcome  that  she  cried  out: 
‘O,  Holy  Mother,  what  wonderful  miracle 
are  you  performing?  Is  it  that  there  will  be 
an  end  to  the  fighting  in  Chihuahua?’ 

“An  unbeliever  remarked  that  it  might  be 
only  a rat’s  nest  under  the  statue.  A German 

107 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


doctor  was  of  the  opinion  that  a strong  breeze 
caused  the  swaying.  Another  bystander  sug- 
gested that  it  might  be  owing  to  vibrations 
caused  by  the  machinery  in  a mill  fifty  meters 
away.  These  opinions  were  received  with 
scoffing.  Later  in  the  day  so  many  had  assem- 
bled that  more  policemen  were  required  to 
keep  order.  The  people  had  become  frenzied 
with  excitement;  they  hooted  and  threw 
stones.  The  policemen  fired  shots  to  intimi- 
date the  crowd  which  had  now  increased  to 
over  a thousand,  and  one  man  was  seriously 
wounded.  Mounted  police  then  arrived  on 
the  scene  and  the  mob  was  finally  dispersed. 
The  next  day  a government  official  visited  the 
church  and  ordered  the  boards  of  the  floor 
taken  up.  He  found  that  wires  had  been  laid 
underground  and  connected  with  the  machin- 
ery of  the  mill,  which,  when  put  in  motion, 
caused  the  vibrations  which  swayed  the 
image.” 


CHAPTER  VI 

THE  CHAPEE  ON  THE  HILL, 
GUADALUPE 


THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  SACRO 
xMONTE,  AMECAMECA 


CHAPTER  VI 


THE  CHAPEL  ON  THE  HILL, 
GUADALUPE 

The  little  church  on  the  top  of  the  hill  in 
the  village  of  Guadalupe,  three  miles  from 
Mexico  City,  is  the  most  sacred  shrine  in  all 
Mexico  and  one  of  the  most  famous  in  the 
world.  This  is  the  legend  connected  with  its 
founding:  An  Indian,  Juan  Diego,  on  his  way 
to  hear  mass  at  the  Church  of  Santiago 
Tlaltelolco,  nearing  the  hill  of  Guadalupe, 
saw  an  apparition  of  the  Virgin,  who  bade 
him  go  to  Bishop  Zumarraga  and  order  him 
to  build  a chapel  in  her  honor  on  the  hill. 
Tremblingly  he  listened,  and  when  the  Virgin 
disappeared  he  went  to  the  Bishop  and  de- 
livered the  message.  The  Bishop  having  no 
faith  in  the  Indian’s  story  sent  him  away. 
Again  the  Virgin  appeared  to  the  Indian  and 
repeated  her  command.  The  Bishop  receiv- 
ing the  message  the  second  time,  told  the 
Indian  he  must  bring  some  proof.  On  his 

III 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


return  home,  the  Indian  found  his  uncle  ill 
and  he  was  obliged  to  remain  by  his  side.  On 
the  morning  of  December  12,  1531,  Juan 
started  out  for  a confessor,  as  the  sick  man  was 
at  the  point  of  death.  On  the  way  he  was 
again  intercepted  by  the  Virgin,  who  assured 
him  that  his  uncle  was  already  well  and  told 
him  to  gather  some  flowers  on  the  barren 
hillside.  Immediately  * flowers  sprung  up 
where  none  had  ever  grown  before.  She 
commanded  him  to  take  the  flowers  to  the 
Bishop.  Joyfully  he  carried  them  in  his 
tilma,  a sort  of  apron  made  of  ixtli,  a fiber  of 
the  maguey.  As  the  Indian  dropped  the 
flowers  at  the  Bishop’s  feet  there  appeared 
upon  the  tilma  the  image  of  the  Virgin  in 
most  beautiful  colors.  Sucli  evidence  couhl 
not  be  rejected.  A chapel  was  built  where 
the  roses  had  so  miraculously  grown  from  the 
barren  soil.  On  February  7,  1532,  the  tilma 
with  the  painting  upon  it  was  placed  over  the 
altar  within  the  shrine.  In  I7<;4  a Jesuit 
priest  was  sent  to  Rome  and  secured  favorable 
action  by  the  Congregation  of  Rites  and  the 
feast  of  the  12th  of  December  was  established 
by  the  papal  bull  of  Benedict  XIV.  Thus  the 
Virgin  of  Guadalupe  was  ofliciallv  proclaimed 

1 12 


CHURCH  OX  THE  HILL,  GUADALUPE,  WITH  THE  STONE  SAILS 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  protectress  and  patroness  of  Mexico,  or 
New  Spain,  and  recently  an  attempt  was  made 
to  have  her  declared  the  patroness  of  all 
America.  From  that  time  a great  feast  has 
been  celebrated  every  year,  the  chief  event 
taking  place  on  December  12.  For  an  entire 
week  before  that  date  the  railroads  are  almost 
entirely  occupied  in  bringing  trainloads  of 
excursionists  to  the  shrine.  Thousands  more 
come  on  foot  traveling  many  weary  days, 
their  backs  laden  with  heavy  packs  containing 
pottery  and  vegetables  which  they  sell  to  pay 
their  expenses  and  for  an  offering  to  the 
Virgin.  On  December  ii  every  year  occurs 
the  great  religious  dance  in  honor  of  the 
Virgin,  when  the  Indians  dress  themselves  in 
their  most  brilliant  costumes.  They  dance  in 
single  file,  in  a circle,  their  bodies  swaying  to 
the  music  of  violin  and  flute.  Before  the 
dance  begins  and  at  intervals  during  the  night 
fireworks  are  set  off  in  front  of  the  chapel. 
It  is  the  fervent  belief  of  the  Indians  that  by 
this  dance  they  please  the  Virgin  and  procure 
for  themselves  a place  in  heaven.  Some  have 
been  known  to  dance  until  they  dropped  dead 
from  exhaustion. 

Juan  de  Zumarraga,  the  Archbishop  to 

115 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


whom  Juan  Diego  showed  the  roses  in  his 
tilma,  was  a kind  and  humane  man  if  some- 
what credulous,  who  used  his  personal  and 
ecclesiastical  influence  in  defense  of  the  native 
Indians.  Alas,  he  had  to  do  with  men  on 
whom  his  pleadings  on  behalf  of  the  con- 
quered race  made  but  little  impression.  The 
Spaniards,  in  order  to  justify  their  cruelties, 
affected  to  believe  that  the  Indians  were  not 
human  beings  at  all.  But  Pope  Paul  II,  in 
the  same  year  the  alleged  apparition  occurred, 
declared  that  the  Indians  had  all  the  essential 
rights  of  other  men,  a doctrine  that  appears 
to  have  had  little  effect  on  the  conquerors. 
At  the  end  of  this  same  year,  the  enemies  of 
Zumarraga  among  the  Spaniards  averred  that 
the  whole  affair  had  been  trumped  up  by  him 
as  a last  and  desperate  means  of  forcing  his 
countrymen  to  respect  the  rights  of  the  Indian 
race  which  the  “Mother  of  God”  had  taken 
under  her  protection.  This  charge  was  not 
due  to  any  denial  of  the  miraculous  on  the 
part  of  the  Spaniards,  but  it  went  against  the 
grain  to  believe  that  such  a miracle  had  been 
wrought  in  favor  of  a despised  and  down- 
trodden race.  Gradually,  however,  as  the 
people  of  mixed  race  formed  a class  which  is 

1 16 


THE  IMAGE  PRLXTEI)  ON  THE  TIEMA 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


bound  by  ties  of  birth  to  Mexico’s  soil  grew 
in  numbers  and  influence,  the  Mexican  Virgin 
grew  in  popularity,  until  her  worship  became 
not  only  a test  of  religious  zeal  and  orthodoxy, 
but  of  patriotism.  The  picture  of  the  Virgin 
which  is  alleged  to  be  the  original  miracu- 
lously painted  by  the  Virgin  herself  on  the 
tilma  of  Juan  Diego,  appears  on  a coarse 
cloth,  six  feet  long  by  two  feet  wide,  pro- 
tected by  an  immense  frame  and  located  above 
the  altar  of  the  Collegiate  Church,  which  was 
enlarged  in  1709  to  meet  the  need  of  room  for 
the  great  throngs  of  pilgrims  which  were  in- 
creasing every  year. 

The  ceremony  of  transferring  the  miracu- 
lous painting  of  the  Virgin  from  the  Cathedral 
of  Mexico  City,  where  it  had  remained  for 
the  four  years  previous,  was  perhaps  the 
greatest  ecclesiastical  event  in  the  history  of 
the  country.  The  church  bells  rang  for  days. 
All  the  civil  and  ecclesiastical  authorities,  the 
students,  foreign  ministers,  monks,  and  nuns 
of  the  monastic  orders  formed  in  procession, 
the  majority  being  on  foot. 

The  Collegiate  Church  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  is  of  brick.  Its  length  is  184  feet  and  its 
width  122  feet.  Tall  onyx  columns,  highly 

1 19 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


polished,  support  arches  of  Moorish  design. 
The  high  altar  of  marble  and  bronze,  with 
the  baldachin,  cost  over  $350,000,  silver.  In 
the  tympanum  is  a relief,  exquisitely  carved, 
with  the  recumbent  forms  of  three  angels 
wrought  in  silver  with  wings  of  solid  gold. 
There  are  two  staircases  of  Carrara  marble, 
and  the  newel  posts  of  Choluca  stone  support 
silver  candelabra.  The  statue  of  a former 
prelate,  together  with  that  of  Juan  Diego, 
kneeling  in  adoration  before  the  sacred  tilma, 
are  of  Carrara  white  marble  made  by  Nicoli 
of  Florence.  I'he  railing  about  the  great  altar 
is  of  solid  silver.  A would-be  purchaser 
offered  to  replace  it  with  a silver-plated  one 
of  the  same  design  and  pay  a bonus  of 
$300,000,  but  his  ofYer  was  rejected. 

A conspicuous  object  half  way  up  the  hill 
at  Guadalupe  is  the  representation  of  two 
stone  sails,  erected  by  a sailor  in  fulfillment 
of  a vow  made  during  a severe  storm,  when 
his  ship  was  threatened  with  disaster. 

Near  the  church  is  a small  chapel  known  as 
the  Chapel  of  the  ^^T11,  under  whose  dome 
is  a well  of  mineral  water  believed  to  have 
gushed  forth  where  the  Virgin  touched  her 
foot  on  her  last  appearance  to  Juan  Diego. 

I_’0 


INTERIOR  OF  GUADALUPE  CHURCH 


4 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Small  buckets  are  attached  to  the  sides  of  the 
well  and  are  used  by  thousands  who  believe 
the  water  has  not  only  medicinal  but  also 
miraculous  healing  power.  Innumerable 
bottles  of  the  water  are  carried  to  all  parts 
of  the  country  by  devout  pilgrims. 

In  former  years,  multitudes  of  people  could 
be  seen  on  the  road  from  Mexico  City  to  the 
sacred  shrine,  many  of  whom  would  crawl  on 
hands  and  knees  as  an  act  of  piety.  When 
the  writer  came  to  Mexico  thirty-six  years 
ago  there  was  only  one  railroad  in  the  country 
— the  Mexican  railway — from  the  port  of 
Vera  Cruz  to  the  City  of  Mexico.  Travel  was 
accomplished  by  the  old-fashioned  Concord 
coach,  known  in  Mexico  as  the  diligencia,  or 
by  horseback.  Pilgrimages  to  shrines  were 
then  made  almost  wholly  on  foot.  A member 
of  one  of  these  pilgrim  parties  which  left  the 
city  of  Queretaro  one  July  for  Guadalupe 
gave  the  following  account  of  the  trip : “The 
party  attended  mass  at  four  in  the  morning, 
and  at  five  started  from  the  church  on  the  long 
journey.  It  took  nine  days — the  heat  being 
intense  during  a part  of  each  day,  and  the 
rain  in  the  afternoons  drenching  them 
thoroughly.  On  the  road  the  pilgrims  sung 

123 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


psalms  and  recited  prayers  on  their  rosaries. 
At  night  lodgings  were  found  on  farms,  where 
their  experiences  were  not  altogether  pleasant. 
Sometimes  rats  and  mice  ran  over  the  bodies 
of  those  trying  to  sleep.  Some  of  the  pilgrims 
were  put  in  corrals  along  with  the  animals, 
which  frequently  nosed  them  out  of  a bundle 
of  hay.  Provisions  were  scant  and  the  supply 
of  clothing  meager,  and  many  were  exhausted 
when  the  trip  was  only  half  made.” 

A few  years  ago  an  important  ceremony  took 
place  at  Guadalupe,  called  “The  Crowning 
of  the  Virgin.”  The  crown,  which  was  called 
the  “Imperial  Diadem  for  the  Queen  of 
Heaven,”  was  made  expressly  for  the  occa- 
sion, and  was  constructed  of  gold  and  gems 
contributed  by  the  ladies  of  Mexico,  who 
parted  with  jewels  prized  not  only  for  their 
high  intrinsic  value  but  as  heirlooms.  The 
rim  at  the  base  of  the  crown  is  of  twenty-two 
enameled  shields,  representing  the  number  of 
bishoprics  in  Mexico.  A circular  row  of  angels, 
represented  as  issuing  from  roses,  all  of  mass- 
ive gold,  support  six  enameled  escutcheons  on 
which  are  emblazoned  the  arms  of  the  six 
archbishoprics  of  Mexico.  Alternate  festoons 
of  massive  gold  roses  and  diamond  stars 

124 


Waite  Photo. 

THE  CROWN  OF  THE  VIRGIN  OF  GUADALUPE 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


cluster  at  the  top  under  an  inlaid  geographical 
globe  on  which  is  shown  Mexico  and  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico.  Above  the  globe  is  the  Mexican 
eagle  grasping  the  globe  with  one  talon,  while 
with  the  other  it  holds  aloft  a diamond  cross. 
At  the  top  of  the  cross  is  a ring.  The  shields 
and  escutcheons  are  surrounded  with  dia- 
monds with  rows  of  sapphires,  emeralds,  and 
rubies  between.  The  crown  is  said  to  be  the 
finest  piece  of  work  of  its  kind  for  sacred 
purposes  in  existence. 

This  crowning  of  the  Virgin  took  place 
October  12,  1895,  and  was  witnessed  by  one 
hundred  thousand  persons  of  all  ranks  and 
conditions.  Two  hundred  delegates,  prelates, 
and  others  from  Rome  and  other  countries 
were  entertained  at  a banquet  after  the  serv- 
ices. Some  of  the  foreign  visitors  expressed 
regret  that  a procession  could  not  pass  through 
the  streets,  all  religious  processions  being  pro- 
hibited by  the  Laws  of  Reform.  The  govern- 
ment, however,  issued  to  the  church  a license 
for  a lottery  which,  with  other  sources  of 
revenue,  such  as  the  offerings  of  pilgrims  and 
others,  produced  an  immense  revenue. 


127 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  SACRO 
MONTE,  AMECAMECA 

Forty"  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  at 
the  base  of  the  foothills  of  the  well-known 
volcano  Popocatapetl,  lies  the  small  town  of 
Amecameca,  and  within  the  town  a small  but 
abruptly  rising  hill,  in  the  form  of  a cone, 
known  as  El  Sacro  Monte — the  Holy  Moun- 
tain— on  whose  summit  is  located  a church, 
second  only  in  sanctity  and  popularity  to  the 
shrine  of  Guadalupe.  The  road  leading  up  to 
the  church  is  paved  its  entire  length  with 
cobblestones.  Many  pilgrims  from  far  and 
near,  coming  here  for  relief  from  physical 
and  spiritual  ills,  climb  to  the  top  on  their 
knees.  At  regular  intervals  on  the  way  are 
fourteen  stations,  each  with  its  shrine,  the 
first  of  which  is  dedicated  to  Saint  Helena, 
the  mother  of  Constantine.  On  the  roots  of 
the  trees,  which  protrude  from  the  earth  on 
either  side  of  the  ascent,  are  hung  images, 
tufts  of  hair,  strings,  etc.,  left  as  votive  offer- 
ings by  the  pilgrims. 

The  venerated  church  at  the  top  of  the 
mount  is  built  over  a cave  in  which,  if  one  is 
early  enough,  he  is  supposed  to  hear  mass 

128 


RIGHT  OF  THE  SHRINE 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


said  in  Rome.  Crude  images  adorn  the  walls, 
while  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  hang  small 
paintings  on  wood  or  tin,  representing  various 
miraculous  deliverances  from  robbery,  acci- 
dent, etc.,  obtained  through  prayer  to  El 
Sehor  del  Sacro  Monte.  A stairway  outside 
the  church  leads  to  rooms  above  the  cave, 
each  containing  only  a wooden  bed  and  a 
chair,  and  with  a small  aperture  in  the  wall, 
which  is  always  barred  during  the  novenas 
when  occupied  by  women  who  come  here  to 
practice  self-denial,  by  giving  themselves 
to  fasting  and  prayer  and  self-torture  with 
disciplinas. 

The  chief  object  of  veneration  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Church  of  the  Sacro  Monte  is 
a life-size  figure  of  Christ  in  a niche  hewn 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  made  of  some  material 
so  light  that  its  weight  is  but  a little  more 
than  two  pounds.  The  figure  is  in  a recum- 
bent position,  the  head  bandaged  and  the  body 
covered  with  a velvet  robe.  Though  there 
are  many  versions  with  respect  to  the  figure, 
the  legend  generally  accepted  is  that  shortly 
after  the  Conquest  a very  holy  man  took  up 
his  residence  in  the  cave  upon  the  Sacred 
Mount,  He  longed  for  a suitable  image  of 

131 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  Christ  for  his  shrine.  One  day  some 
merchants,  transporting  some  images  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  appeared  in 
the  vicinity.  When  their  pack-mules  came 
within  sight  of  the  Sacro  Monte,  the  mule 
bearing  a certain  representative  of  Christ 
broke  loose  from  his  driver  and  ran  to  the 
hills.  After  diligent  search  the  lost  mule  was 
found  in  a cave  unable  to  release  itself.  The 
searching  party  reported  the  matter  to  the 
archbishop,  who  decided  that  the  animal 
should  be  freed  but  that  the  image  should  be 
left  in  the  cave  of  the  Sacro  Monte  where  it 
remains  to  this  day. 

The  report  of  the  miracle,  for  such  it  was 
regarded,  induced  hundreds  to  come  from 
great  distances  to  see  the  image.  It  was  whis- 
pered too  that,  being  so  light  in  weight,  it  had 
undoubtedly  been  sent  directly  from  heaven. 
(It  is  probably  made  of  pith.)  On  Ash 
Wednesday  the  figure  is  taken  from  the  cave 
to  the  village  church,  where  it  remains  until 
the  following  Friday,  a period  that  marks 
the  greatest  celebration  of  the  year  in 
Amecameca.  Many  families  attend  with 
their  entire  households,  so  that  the  gathering 
assumes  the  aspect  of  a picnic.  The  photo- 

132 


IMAGE  IN  THE  CAVE,  SACRO  MONTE 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


graph  shows  pilgrims  assisting  one  of  their 
number  who  is  almost  fainting  from  exhaus- 
tion on  her  way  up  the  mountain,  while  on  the 
ground  may  be  seen  a rebozo  which  some 
charitable  bystander  has  thrown  down  to 
soften  the  stony  path  for  the  bruised  and 
lacerated  knees.  Note  the  crown  of  thorns 
upon  her  head  and  the  coppers  in  the  dish 
which  will  add  to  the  gift  which  she  may 
present  if  she  can  reach  the  shrine. 


135 


PILGRIM  CLIMBING  ON  HER  KNEES,  SACRO 
MONTE,  AMECAMECA 


CHAPTER  VII 

THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  GUADA- 
LAJARA 

THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  ZACATECAS 

THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  PUEBLA 
(CITY  OF  ANGELS) 

THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  CUERNAVACA 
THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  MORELIA 


. , i 


I ■ 


V 


■1 


CHAPTER  VII 


THE  CATHEDRAL  OF 
GUADALAJARA 

The  original  Cathedral  of  Guadalajara, 
like  the  one  in  Oaxaca,  succeeded  a primitive 
church  thatched  with  straw.  Most  Mexican 
churches  have  a somber  appearance,  as  only 
a gray  dim  light  penetrates  the  lofty  domes. 
With  respect  to  this  the  Cathedral  of  Guada- 
lajara is  in  striking  contrast  to  the  others,  as 
a bright  light  suffuses  the  entire  edifice. 

The  interior  decorations  are  in  white  and 
gold.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  nave  are  stained 
windows  with  a representation  of  Christ  in 
the  center.  The  choir  does  not  occupy  the 
center  nave  as  in  other  cathedrals,  but  is  placed 
at  the  back  of  the  high  altar,  thus  giving  an 
unobstructed  view  of  the  whole  interior.  In 
the  tribune  above  the  entrance  is  located  the 
magnificent  organ,  built  in  Paris  and  costing 
$60,000,  its  date  of  consecration,  as  shown  by 
an  inscription  on  a nearby  arch,  being  1796. 

141 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


The  greatest  attraction  of  the  church,  how- 
ever, is  the  painting  of  “The  Assumption,” 
by  Murillo,  which  unfortunately  is  hung  too 
high  (over  the  doors  of  the  sacristy)  in  a light 
too  dim  for  close  inspection.  Napoleon  III 
is  said  to  have  offered  $40,000  for  the  painting. 
At  times  the  interest  in  it  has  been  so  great 
that  the  church  authorities  have  concealed  it 
in  the  walls,  lest  it  should  be  stolen  or  carried 
off  by  force. 

The  great  altar,  thirty  feet  in  height,  is  of 
white  marble,  imported  from  Rome  and  cost- 
ing $50,000.  One  of  the  blocks  is  said  to 
weigh  from  twelve  to  fifteen  tons,  and  only 
those  who  lived  in  .Me.xico  before  the  advent 
of  the  railroad  can  appreciate  the  immense 
labor  required  to  transport  the  material  four 
hundred  miles  from  the  coast. 

Earthquakes  had  impaired  the  original 
towers  t)f  the  Cathedral,  which  have  since 
been  rebuilt.  They  somewhat  resemble  cones 
and  are  not  very  high.  Along  the  ridges  to 
the  pinnacles  are  lines  of  incandescent  lamps. 
Smaller  spires,  unlike  anything  seen  elsewhere 
in  Me.xico,  surround  the  bases  of  the  two  prin- 
cipal towers,  in  one  of  which  there  is  a small 
bell  known  as  “the  bell  of  the  post,”  which 

142 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


used  to  ring  to  announce  some  important  event. 
Another  bell,  called  San  Clemente,  was  rung 
during  thunder  storms  to  ward  off  lightning 

THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  ZACATECAS 

Zacatecas  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of 
all  Mexican  cities.  It  is  over  eight  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea,  is  completely  surrounded 
by  mountains,  and  is  the  center  of  a very  rich 
mining  district,  its  total  product  being  reck- 
oned in  the  billions. 

What  is  now  the  Cathedral  was  formerly 
the  Church  of  “Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Asun- 
cion,” begun  in  1622  and  formerly  dedicated 
in  1752.  It  became  the  Cathedral  in  1862. 
As  might  be  expected  from  so  wealthy  a city, 
the  Cathedral  was  richly  adorned,  but  has 
been  greatly  despoiled  in  later  years.  It  is 
built  of  brown  stone,  elaborately  carved,  there 
being  hardly  an  inch  of  the  facade  (see  illus- 
tration) which  does  not  show  marks  of  the 
chisel,  life-size  statues  of  Christ  and  the 
Apostles  being  set  in  niches.  The  French 
artist  who  constructed  this  fagade  was,  it  is 
alleged,  sentenced  to  death  for  some  crime, 
but  was  allowed  to  live  until  he  had  corn- 

143 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


pleted  his  task.  Adopting  the  Mexican  habit 
known  as  “mahana,”  which  freely  interpreted 
means,  “Never  do  to-day  what  you  can  put 
off  till  to-morrow,”  he  managed  so  to  delay 
his  work  that  it  took  twenty-one  years  to  com- 
plete it.  All  the  while,  armed  sentinels 
guarded  his  prison  and  escorted  him  to  and 
from  his  work.  The  confinement  told  on  his 
constitution,  however,  and  at  last  he  informed 
the  authorities  that  he  could  not  work  longer 
and  was  ready  to  meet  the  sentence  passed 
upon  him  so  many  years  before.  Meanwhile 
his  achievements  won  him  so  much  renown 
that  he  was  granted  a pardon,  while  banquets 
and  other  honors  followed  in  rapid  succession. 
'I'he  people,  however,  had  been  too  dilatory 
in  acknowledging  his  worth,  for  he  died  be- 
fore the  ship  sailed  that  was  to  take  him  back 
to  France. 

d'HE  CATHEDRAL  OF  PUEBLA, 
Crrv  OF  d'HE  ANGELS 

lx  the  year  1529  Bishop  Julian  Garces 
arrived  from  Spain.  After  a time  he  desired 
to  establish  a new  town  near  the  sacred  city 
of  Cholula.  One  night,  so  the  story  goes,  he 

144 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


dreamed  he  saw  two  angels  with  a measuring 
line  laying  out  a site  for  a city.  On  awaking 
he  arose  and  began  to  search  for  the  place 
he  had  seen  so  vividly  in  his  dream.  On 
finding  it  he  exclaimed,  “This  is  the  place  the 
Lord  has  chosen  through  his  holy  angels;  to 
his  glory  here  shall  the  city  be.”  The  city 
was  built  and  is  still  called  “Puebla  de  los 
Angeles,”  or  Puebla  for  short.  (Another 
version  of  the  story  is  to  the  effect  that  it  was 
Queen  Isabella  who  had  the  dream  and  that 
she  sent  the  bishop  to  find  the  site.) 

The  Puebla  Cathedral  was  begun  in  1552 
but  was  not  consecrated  until  1649.  It  is  323 
feet  long,  100  feet  wide,  and  80  feet  high,  and 
its  cost  is  said  to  have  been  $1,300,000,  though 
this  amount  can  hardly  represent  the  total 
expenditure.  Indeed,  there  is  a legend  which 
is  believed  by  thousands  of  the  faithful  to 
the  effect  that  when  the  walls  were  going  up 
angels  every  night  came  down  from  heaven 
and  added  the  same  amount  of  masonry  as  the 
workmen  had  laid  during  the  previous  day, 
thus  bestowing  upon  the  town  the  title,  “City 
of  the  Angels.” 

Much  of  the  interior  of  this  edifice  is  of 
the  famous  Puebla  onyx.  The  high  altar, 

145 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


whose  builder  was  the  noted  Spanish  architect, 
Manuel  Tolsa,  is  of  onyx  and  marble,  the  color 
effect  being  particularly  pleasing — the  green 
and  white  of  the  onyx  mingling  with  the 
deeper  tones  of  the  marble.  The  enormous 
clustered  columns  that  support  the  arches  of 
the  Cathedral  are  covered  at  Christmas  time 
with  immense  curtains  of  red  silk  plush  em- 
broidered in  gold.  The  great  chandelier  of 
gold  and  silver  was  seized  during  the  religious 
w'ars  by  General  Miramon  and  sold  for 
$40,000,  with  which  sum  he  paid  his  troops 
for  fighting  the  battles  of  the  church  against 
the  republic. 

In  the  sacristy  are  tapestries  said  to  have 
been  made  by  ladies  of  the  Spanish  Court. 
Others  are  of  Flemish  make,  of  the  kind  found 
in  many  of  the  cathedrals  of  Spain.  Some 
enterprising  American  tourists  visiting  the 
Cathedral  and  the  Episcopal  Palace  were 
much  interested  in  these  tapestries,  and  are 
said  to  have  offered  the  bishop  $40,000  for 
them,  a proposition  which  was  indignantly 
refused. 

The  Chapter  Room,  which  is  upholstered 
in  Flemish  tapestry,  contains  a conference 
table  which  is  a solid  slab  of  onyx,  and  is 

146 


Waite  Photo. 


PUEBLA  CATHEDRAL 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


further  furnished  with  thirty-two  carved 
Spanish  chairs,  presented  by  Charles  V.  The 
organ  cases  are  richly  carved  in  native  woods. 
The  doors  at  the  entrance  are  very  high  and 
show  some  wonderful  marquetry  work. 

As  will  be  noted  in  the  picture,  an  iron 
railing  now  surrounds  the  Cathedral,  showing 
among  other  designs  fifty-four  statues  of 
angels  surmounting  the  pillars  and  arches  of 
the  gateways.  These  are  so  poised  as  to  appear 
on  the  wing.  Figures  of  the  twelve  apostles 
are  distributed  on  the  columns  of  the  railing, 
with  pilasters  between  bearing  representations 
of  the  fathers  of  the  church.  The  croziers  in 
the  hands  of  the  apostles  denote  their  jurisdic- 
tion. On  the  principal  gates  are  basso  relievos 
with  representations  of  the  founding  of 
Puebla,  the  laying  of  the  first  stone  of  the 
Cathedral,  and  its  consecration.  Statues  of 
Hope  and  Charity  crown  these  gates.  The 
railing,  completed  only  a few  years  ago,  is  a 
memorial  to  Pope  Pius  IX. 

Among  the  paintings  and  statues  of  the 
Cathedral  is  an  inlaid  picture  of  Saint  Peter 
on  the  door  leading  to  the  bishop’s  seat,  and 
in  the  shrine  above  is  preserved  a thorn  from 
the  crown  of  Christ.  In  a glass  case  lies  a 

149 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


most  repulsive  image  of  Christ,  streaked  with 
red  paint  to  represent  blood.  The  face  ex- 
presses terrible  suffering.  The  body  is  literally 
covered  with  silver  objects  as  votive  offerings. 
The  inscription  below  reads:  “Lord  of  the 


IMAC.F.  I\  PUEBL.\  C.\THF.DR.\L 

Holy  Sepulchre,  which  is  Venerated  in  the 
Holy  Basilica  of  Puebla.’’  A marble  statue 
of  Christ,  life-size,  stands  on  a pedestal  just 
inside  the  main  entrance.  Chained  images, 
with  only  the  upper  part  of  the  body  resting 
on  pedestals,  are  represented  as  in  the  flames 
of  purgatory. 

150 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


In  addition  to  the  Cathedral  there  are  be- 
tween forty  and  fifty  other  churches  in  Puebla, 
which  is  about  two  thirds  the  number  existing 
before  the  Laws  of  Reform  were  enacted. 
Some  of  the  Puebla  churches  have  been  re- 
constructed at  great  expense.  Of  the  old  and 
neglected  churches  one,  with  its  numerous 
adjacent  buildings  covering  a large  area,  was 
appropriated  by  the  government  for  the  site 
of  a new  penitentiary.  Another  for  a time 
served  for  a freight  house  and  machine  shop 
for  the  railway  company.  One  of  the  largest 
convent  grounds,  consisting  of  five  courts,  is 
now  a Normal  School  for  Young  Women  of 
the  Woman’s  Foreign  Missionary  Society. 

THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  CUERNAVACA 

This  Cathedral  was  founded  by  Cortez  be- 
tween 1529  and  1531.  The  timbers  are  like 
those  used  in  old  Spanish  galleons.  The  nave 
has  a central  line  of  crude  sun-baked  bricks. 
The  huge  doors  swing  on  pivots.  Small  doors 
are  set  into  the  larger,  as  in  the  Oriental  gates, 
the  smaller  being  called  “the  needle’s  eye.” 
The  bosses  in  these  doors  with  ornamental 
heads,  suggesting  Moorish  art,  have  sharp 

151 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


points  capped  with  an  iron  piece  two  inches 
long  and  an  inch  wide  at  the  top. 

The  interior,  though  severely  plain,  is  not 
materially  changed  from  what  it  was  a hun- 
dred years  before  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  landed 
at  Plymouth  Rock,  when  within  these  walls 
assembled  mailed  warriors,  cowled  monks, 
and  haughty  Spanish  dons. 

The  tower  formerly  contained  a clock, 
which  Charles  V of  Spain  presented  to 
Cortez,  and  which  is  said  to  have  kept  good 
time  for  three  hundred  years.  It  stood  in  a 
frame  of  wood  and  iron,  four  feet  high  and 
three  feet  wide.  Its  ponderous  pendulum  was 
weighted  with  twelve  pounds  of  shot.  The 
works  were  of  wrought  iron,  which  when 
needing  recent  repairs  these  were  made  by  a 
blacksmith. 

d'hc  left  transept  of  the  Cathedral  contains 
a curious  gilt  coffin  holding  a reclining  figure 
of  Christ  with  the  usual  realistic  bandages 
and  a face  e.xpressing  great  agony. 

The  curious  ceremony  of  “blessing  the 
animals”  occurs  in  the  Cathedral  yard  every 
year.  This  is  a custom  based  on  a tradition 
regarding  Saint  Anthony,  who  was  born  in 
Egypt  in  the  middle  of  the  third  century  after 


HlS'l'ORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Christ,  and  who  in  his  youth  withdrew  from 
human  society  and  lived  in  a cave  in  the  desert. 
The  story  is  to  the  effect  that  when  Satan 
tempted  Saint  Anthony,  the  latter  dared  him 
to  do  his  worst.  Finally,  Satan  and  a multi- 


CUERNAVACA  CATHEDRAL 

tude  of  fiends  fell  upon  him  at  night,  fairly 
shaking  the  walls  of  his  little  cell  and  leaving 
him  nearly  dead  on  the  floor.  They  trans- 
formed themselves  into  all  sorts  of  beasts,  but 
this  did  not  deter  the  saint  from  leading  a life 
of  solitude  and  devout  contemplation.  In- 
stead of  cursing  the  real  animals  whose  shapes 

153 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


had  tormented  him,  he  blessed  them  so  that 
they  might  no  longer  be  instruments  of  Satan. 

Passing  the  Cathedral  on  the  day  set  apart 
to  the  honor  of  Saint  Anthony  I saw  an  im- 
mense crowd  in  the  grounds.  Children  were 
there  carrying  cages  with  pet  canaries.  One 
boy  had  a rooster  whose  fighting  propensity 
required  all  the  boy’s  strength  to  suppress. 
Something  like  a stampede  was  caused  when 
a young  man  came  through  the  gates  with  a 
prancing  colt  which  was  decorated  from  mane 
to  tail  with  flaring  bows  of  pink  tissue  paper. 
Dogs  and  lambs  which  had  been  put  through 
a dyeing  process  were  present.  A young  girl 
carried  a parrot  cage  in  which  was  a very 
active  and  noisy  cat,  whose  tail  hanging 
through  the  bars  was  being  pinched  by  mis- 
chievous boys.  After  a considerable  time  had 
elapsed  a priest  emerged  from  an  adjoining 
chapel.  He  seemed  to  be  much  embarrassed. 
With  an  assistant  carrying  the  holv  water  the 
priest  rushed  through  the  performance  of 
sprinkling  the  animals.  While  blessing  them 
the  year  previous  he  was  gradually  crowded 
to  the  edge  of  the  stone  steps,  from  which  he 
fell  to  the  pavement  below,  an  episode  that 
appeared  to  give  much  enjoyment  to  some 

154 


ENTRANCE  TO  CATHEDRAL  CLOSE,  CUERNAVACA 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


students  who  were  watching  the  ceremony 
from  the  roof  of  the  neighboring  seminary. 

In  addition  to  the  seminario  and  hospital, 
there  are  connected  with  the  Cathedral  three 
chapels  which  are  situated  in  the  extreme  cor- 
ners of  the  immense  inclosure,  all  being  sur- 
rounded by  high  walls.  Quaint  copings  and 
crosses  surround  the  gateways  of  entrances, 
and  flying  buttresses  have  been  adjusted  to  the 
bulging  walls.  The  beautiful  Borda  gardens 
opposite  the  Cathedral  were  the  creation  of 
Don  Jose  de  la  Borda,  a Frenchman  who 
came  to  Mexico  in  the  beginning  of  the 
eighteenth  century  as  an  unknown  poor  boy. 
He  became  a miner,  and  in  the  course  of  a 
few  years  found  himself  the  possessor  of  sixty 
million  pesos.  He  spent  a million  and  a quar- 
ter pesos  upon  the  place  till  his  idea  of  fairy- 
land was  realized. 

The  church  which  adjoins  these  gardens 
and  residence  was  built  by  Borda,  for  in  those 
days  a church  was  considered  an  indispensable 
adjunct  to  every  palatial  home.  It  was,  how- 
ever, finished  by  his  son,  a priest,  after  his 
father’s  death,  and  is  dedicated  to  the  Virgin 
of  Guadalupe. 


157 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  MORELIA 

SURROUNDKI)  by  mountains  whose  sides 
with  the  neighboring  valleys  are  clothed  with 
verdure  the  year  round,  and  with  charming 
little  parks  laid  out  in  a most  artistic  way, 
Morelia,  the  capitol  of  the  state  of  Michoacan, 
has  much  to  impress  the  visitor.  It  has  a 
wonderful  old  aqueduct  with  254  arches,  each 
27  feet  high  and  18  feet  wide,  the  cost  of  the 
construction  of  this  having  been  borne  by  the 
bishop  of  the  diocese,  not  merely  to  provide 
an  ample  supply  of  water  for  the  inhabitants 
but  to  give  employment  to  poor  workingmen. 

There  are  scores  of  churches  in  .Morelia, 
many  of  them  hardly  more  than  a stone’s 
throw  apart.  Fhe  Cathedral,  which  was 
finished  in  the  seventeenth  century,  is  one  of 
the  finest  church  buildings  in  the  countrv, 
somewhat  resembling  the  Cathedral  of  .Me.x- 
ico  City. 

The  reliquary  of  the  high  altar  is  of  finely 
chiseled  gold  and  silver.  The  sillerta  of  the 
choir  is  carved  and  gilded,  the  nave  and  the 
fine  aisles  paved  with  mosaic  tiling.  The  cost, 

158 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


including  the  candlesticks,  ornaments,  and 
sacred  vessels,  is  said  to  have  been  more  than 
$7,000,000,  silver.  The  font  of  solid  silver,  in 


THE  VIA  DOLOROSA,  MORELIA,  WHICH 
PILGRIMS  TRAVERSE  ON  THEIR  KNEES 

which  were  baptized  the  emperor  Iturbide 
and  the  curate  Jose  Maria  Morelos,  one  of  the 
heroes  of  Mexico’s  independence,  is  greatly 
venerated.  A depository  for  relics,  made  by 

159 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


a silversmith  of  Michoacan,  cost  $16,000, 
silver.  Instead  of  the  thousands  of  candles 
used  formerly  for  lighting  the  altars,  the 
Cathedral  now  has  two  thousand  electric 
lamps. 

There  is  in  Morelia  a splendid  avenue 
bordered  on  each  side  by  fine  trees  with 
spreading  branches.  Some  years  ago  this 
avenue  was  a veritable  via  dolorosa  to  many  a 
devout  penitent,  who  was  expected  to  traverse 
it  on  his  knees,  to  which  were  strapped  bands 
of  leather  studded  with  iron  spikes  that  pene- 
trated the  flesh  with  every  movement,  while 
at  intervals  he  flogged  himself  on  the  bare 
back  with  a disciplina  that  lacerated  it  at 
every  blow.  The  law  now  forbids  this  kind 
of  torture,  and  hundreds  of  the  disciplitias 
have  been  confiscated  by  the  government.  1 1 is 
well  known,  however,  that  these  instruments 
of  torture  are  used  in  the  convents  by  devotees 
in  retreats  during  novenas,  and  by  the  Indians 
in  remote  towns.  The  writer’s  private  collec- 
tion contains  many  specimens,  including  a hair 
shirt,  most  of  them  showing  marks  of  more  or 
less  recent  usage. 


160 


CATHEDRAL,  MORELIA 


CHAPTER  VIII 

THE  CHURCH  AT  TAXCO, 
GUERRERO 

THE  CHURCH  OF  TEPOTZOTLAN, 
MEXICO 

LEGEND  OF  THE  IMAGE  OF  OUR 
LADY  OF  GUANAJUATO 

THE  VALENCIANA  CHURCH, 
GUANAJUATO 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SAN  ANTONIO, 
COYOACAN 

THE  CHURCH  IN  CUAUTLA 

CHURCH  AND  CONVENT  IN 
ATLIXCO,  PUEBLA 


CHAPTER  VIII 


THE  CHURCH  AT  TAXCO, 
GUERRERO 

Jose  DE  la  Borda,  the  patron  of  the  Guada- 
lupe Church  at  Cuernavaca,  who  spent  his 
life  working  mines  (from  which  he  received 
enormous  revenues)  and  building  churches, 
evidently  intended  to  make  the  church  at 
Taxco,  which  is  about  fifty  miles  from 
Cuernavaca,  surpass  all  others  of  its  size  in 
the  country.  In  its  elaborate  carvings  and 
richness  of  effect  the  high  altar  is  probably 
not  surpassed  by  any  church  in  the  world.  If 
the  reader  will  look  at  the  picture  of  this  altar 
through  a magnifying  glass  and  count  the 
statues  of  Virgins,  saints,  angels,  and  cherubs, 
he  will  find  upward  of  a hundred.  The 
massive  white  columns  are  chiseled  with  the 
utmost  delicacy,  while  the  pulpit  and  the  two 
confessionals  of  dark  wood  are  richly  carved. 
The  sacristy  is  a marvel  of  beauty,  its  walls 
being  covered  with  large  canvases  by  Cabrera, 
among  them  a beautiful  painting  of  the 
Nativity,  with  twelve  scenes  from  the  life  of 

165 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Christ  and  the  Virgin.  Two  large  mirrors 
have  heavy  gold  ornaments.  The  chairs  and 
tables  are  peculiarly  and  artistically  carved. 
The  dome  is  covered  with  tile-work  in  various 
designs  with  an  inscription  of  bold  lettering. 

Formerly  the  entire  floor  of  the  church  was 
covered  with  a magnificent  India  carpet,  a 
portion  of  which  now  serves  as  a rug  in  the 
sacristy,  d'he  son  of  de  la  Borda  was  the  first 
priest  of  the  I'axco  church. 

I'HE  CHURCH  OF  TEPOTZOTLAN, 
.MEXICO 

The  first  members  of  the  Jesuit  Order  ar- 
rived in  xMe.xico  in  September,  1572.  They 
lived  in  Me.xico  City  until  the  arrival  of  Dr. 
Juan  de  la  Plaza,  a prominent  member  of  the 
Order,  who  came  from  Peru  in  1580  ostensibly 
to  inspect  the  houses  and  work  of  the  order. 
He  was  evidently  not  quite  satisfied  with  the 
progress  made,  for  he  decided  the  members 
must  move  to  districts  where,  by  learning  the 
principal  languages  and  dialects  of  the 
Indians,  they  could  more  effectively  perform 
their  work.  He  sent  some  priests  to  Huis- 
quilucan,  between  .Me.xico  City  and  Toluca, 
where  they  met  with  considerable  success  and 

166 


RICHLY  DECORATED  INTERIOR  OE  TAXCO  CHURCH 


HISTORIC  CHURCHKS  IN  MEXICO 

were  able  to  extend  their  work  to  neighboring 
villages. 

Later  it  was  suggested  to  the  Jesuit  author- 


VALENCIANA  CHURCH,  GUANAJUATO 

ities  that  another  town,  Tepotzotlan,  near 
Cuautitlan,  might  prove  an  advantageous 
center  for  work  among  the  Otomis,  and  a 

169 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


priest  with  an  assistant  was  sent.  In  1584  a 
school  was  established  for  Indian  children. 
Two  years  later  the  novitiate  where  the  candi- 
dates for  the  Order  pursued  their  preliminary 
studies  was  transferred  from  Me.xico  City  to 
Tepotzotlan.  Indeed,  the  place  continued  to 
be  a center  of  great  Jesuit  activity  until  the 
Order  was  e.xpelled  from  the  country  by  the 
government  in  1873. 

Some  years  after  their  expulsion,  the  Order 
having  been  permitted  to  return,  the  property 
at  I'epotzotlan  came  again  into  their  hands. 
In  August,  1908,  in  honor  of  the  American 
ambassador,  the  authorities  of  the  Tepotzotlan 
Church  arranged  for  an  inspection  of  the  re- 
constructed edifice,  d'he  visitors  were  amazed 
to  find  in  an  out  of  the  way  place  a church 
which  with  its  decorations  and  art  treasures 
represents  a value  of  several  millions,  each 
altar  being  valued  at  a million. 

Ehe  church  at  Tepotzotlan  is  itself  suffi- 
cient evidence  of  the  zeal  for  religion  of  the 
conquistadores,  and  particularly  of  the  priests 
who  accompanied  the  army,  as  well  as  of  their 
successors,  who  demonstrated  their  faith  by 
building  churches  in  all  parts  of  the  country, 
often  at  great  personal  sacrifice.  The  illus- 

170 


TEPOTZOTLAX  CHURCH 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


tration  shows  three  of  the  altars  with  their 
elaborate  ornamentation. 


LEGEND  OE  THE  IMAGE  OF  OUR 
LADY  OF  GUANAJUATO 

In  a chapel  near  tlie  San  Francisco  Church 
of  Guanajuato  whose  doors  are  open  only  for 
short  periods  at  six  o’clock  in  the  morning  and 
at  five  in  the  afternoon,  is  an  image  of  the 
Virgin  which  is  believed  to  have  existed  in 
Santa  Fe,  Granada,  in  the  seventh  century. 
The  story  relates  that  when  the  Moors  in- 
vaded Spain  in  714  the  figure  was  hidden  in 
a cave  by  the  devout  people  of  Granada  to 
save  it  from  the  infidels,  and  that  it  remained 
thus  for  eight  centuries.  Though  of  wood  it 
was  preserved  from  decay  by  its  own  miracu- 
lous power.  In  n;£;7  the  mines  of  Guanajuato 
were  sending  to  Philip  II  vast  royalties,  and, 
in  order  to  show  his  appreciation,  the  King 
presented  this  image  of  the  Virgin.  For  many 
years  it  had  been  recognized  as  the  patron 
saint  of  the  city  of  Guanajuato,  but  in 
November,  1907,  it  was  officially  so  declared 
by  papal  authority.  The  coronation  took 
place  May  31,  1908.  The  crown,  which 

173 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


weighs  above  four  pounds,  is  of  gold  studded 
with  gems.  The  figure  itself  is  not  particu- 
larly attractive.  The  face  is  small  in  propor- 
tion to  the  body  and  has  a sallow  aspect.  Its 
wardrobe  was  so  splendid  and  extensive  that 
a vestry  for  its  accommodation  was  set  apart 
in  the  San  Franciscan  Church.  In  times  of 
drought  and  epidemics  the  image  is  still  car- 
ried to  a shrine  on  the  main  street  of  Guana- 
juato, where  it  is  believed  it  will  work  the 
needed  miracle. 

THE  VALENCIANA  CHURCH, 
GUANAJUATO 

The  Valenciana  mining  district,  where  this 
church  is  located,  is  forty  miles  from  the  city 
of  Guanajuato,  and  contains  deposits  of  gold 
and  silver  among  the  richest  in  the  country, 
the  total  output  having  been  upward  of 
$800,000,000,  silver.  In  fact,  silver  was  so 
plentiful  in  the  early  days  that  much  of  the 
ore,  it  is  said,  was  built  into  the  foundations 
of  the  church,  and  Count  de  Rul,  who  was 
one  cf  the  chief  owners  of  the  mining  rights 
of  this  section,  is  declared  to  have  sent  to 
Spain  enough  of  his  uncounted  supply  of 

174 


OUR  LADY  OF  GUANAJUATO 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


bullion  to  purchase  the  rarest  wines  with 
which  to  mix  the  mortar  for  the  walls  of  the 
church.  So  lavish  was  this  rich  miner  that  he 
provided  purple  and  scarlet  bags  of  the  rich 
material  for  removing  the  excavations.  The 
peones  who  worked  the  mines  do  not  appear 
to  have  shared  in  this  wealth,  however,  as 
their  wage  was  but  six  cents  a day,  and  on  the 
religious  festivals,  which  were  numerous,  these 
poor  people  gave  their  services  to  the  build- 
ing of  the  church. 

The  edifice,  which  is  cruciform  in  shape 
and  has  but  one  tower,  was  dedicated  on 
August  7,  1788,  and  is  still  in  a good  state  of 
preservation.  The  interior  is  elaborately 
carved,  with  delicate  relief  ornamentation  of 
the  piers  and  arches.  Its  cost  is  said  to  be 
1,000,000  pesos.  The  high  altar  in  the  center 
and  the  two  others  located  one  at  each  end  of 
the  transept,  have  a reredos  that  occupies  the 
full  height  of  the  chancel  and  transept,  and 
cost  240,000  pesos.  For  a time  each  of  the 
thousand  miners  at  La  Valenciana  gave 
every  week  to  the  church  the  value  of  a piece 
of  ore  called  “la  piedra  de  mano”  (meaning  a 
stone  the  size  of  a man’s  hand),  which  totaled 
an  annual  revenue  of  50,000  pesos  and  per- 

177 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


mitted  a service  of  great  pomp  to  be  main- 
tained. But  the  once  flourishing  community 
has  now  but  few  inhabitants,  and  but  one  resi- 
dent priest. 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SAN  ANTONIO, 
COYOACAN 

Ox  the  bank  of  the  quiet  Magdalena  River 
at  Coyoacan,  about  six  miles  from  Mexico 
City,  is  a chapel  dedicated  to  San  Antonio, 
whose  image  is  guarded  behind  a grill  screen 
that  is  kept  securely  closed  all  day.  Its  archi- 
tecture indicates  the  time  of  the  viceroys, 
when  the  chapel  was  filled  with  devout  wor- 
shipers, most  of  whom  came  from  the  ad- 
joining villages  of  Coyoacan  and  San  Angel. 

The  church  is  now  the  property  of  a lady 
living  in  Coyoacan.  The  Indians  passing 
along  the  highway  with  their  vegetable  crates 
on  their  backs,  approach  the  chapel  rever- 
ently, often  with  hats  in  hand.  Through  the 
bars  they  pass  humble  offerings — perhaps  a 
carrot,  an  onion,  or  a bunch  of  lettuce.  Into 
a box  for  alms  falls  a penny  or  other  small 
coin.  After  making  the  sign  of  the  cross,  they 
pass  on  their  wav  apparently  with  peaceful 

17S 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


minds  and  satisfied  hearts.  Every  evening  at 
dusk  the  owner  of  the  little  church,  dressed 
in  deep  mourning,  comes  to  this  solitary 
church,  opens  the  screen,  gathers  the  pennies, 
coins,  and  vegetables,  which  amount  to  two 
or  three  pesos,  and  retiring,  locks  the  outside 
door.  Early  every  morning  she  returns, 
opens  the  door,  and  places  the  padlock  on  the 
grill  screen.  At  the  end  of  the  year  she  gives 
a religious  feast  from  the  income  she  realizes 
by  her  daily  visits.  To  this  feast  she  invites 
all  the  Indians  for  a radius  of  fifteen  miles 
around  this  solitary  hermitage,  where  during 
the  summer  months  it  nestles  in  luxuriant 
vegetation. 

There  are  many  churches  dedicated  to  San 
Antonio  and  many  shrines  where  he  is  vener- 
ated. The  majority  of  his  devotees  are 
women.  If  unmarried,  they  invariably  ask 
for  a lover  or  a husband.  And  it  is  the  general 
belief  that  the  prayers  are  answered.  At 
Panzacola,  San  Antonio  is  recognized  prin- 
cipally as  the  patron  saint  of  the  harvest.  He 
is  believed  to  bring  rain,  to  quicken  the  seed, 
and  ripen  the  corn.  His  birthday  is  cele- 
brated in  a religious-worldly  manner.  A 
mass  is  chanted  and  a “rosary”  recited  in  the 

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HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


chapel,  while  the  rest  of  the  day  is  given  up 
to  the  old-time  Indian  dances.  In  all  the 
towns  and  ranches  of  that  region  there  is  eat- 
ing and  drinking  and  boisterous  hilarity. 
I'hough  the  saint  has  such  divine  powers,  he 
does  not  keep  away  the  thieves.  A woman 
who  lives  near  the  church  says  the  bells  were 
taken  away  from  the  towers,  and  sometimes 
robbers  insert  long  rods  with  hooks  through 
the  bars  of  the  screen  and  pull  out  the  vege- 
tables which  have  been  left  by  the  devout 
Indians. 

THE  CHURCH  IN  CUAUTLA 

Ox  the  high  table-lands  of  Me.xico  it  is 
always  cold  during  the  months  of  December 
and  January,  and  no  words  can  quite  repre- 
sent the  sensation  which  one  e.xperiences  who 
leaves  the  capital  (whose  altitude  is  nearly 
eight  thousand  feet),  clad  in  heavy  wraps,  and 
in  the  space  of  four  hours  finds  himself  four 
thousand  feet  nearer  the  sea  level,  breathing 
the  balmy  air  of  the  semitropics  and  looking 
out  on  innumerable  fields  of  luxuriant  vege- 
tation. Such  an  experience  is  for  everyone 
who  leaves  .Mexico  City  in  the  winter  to  visit 
the  small  town  of  Cuautla. 

180 


RAILWAY  STATION,  CUAUTLA,  FORMERLY  A CHURCH 


HISTORIC  CHliRCHES  IN  MEXICO 


The  church  seen  in  the  engraving  is  now 
the  Cuautia  station  of  the  Interoceanic  Rail- 
road. As  such  it  is  unique,  and  possibly  the 
oldest  edifice  used  as  a station  in  the  world. 
In  the  baggage  room  formerly  stood  the  high 
altar,  and  under  the  dome  is  a bare  arch  where 
one  can  still  read  the  inscription  in  Latin: 
“How  dreadful  is  this  place.  This  is  none 
other  than  the  house  of  God,  and  this  is  the 
gate  of  heaven.”  The  building  was  the  offer- 
ing of  the  wealthy  Dona  Calderon.  It  was 
confiscated  with  other  church  property  by  the 
government  in  1859.  When  the  Franciscan 
friars  left  it  they  stripped  it  of  all  its  paint- 
ings and  ornaments. 

CHURCH  AND  CONVENT  IN 
ATLIXCO,  PUEBLA 

In  former  years  this  little  Indian  town  in 
the  state  of  Puebla  had  five  churches  almost 
within  a stone’s  throw  of  each  other.  Now 
churches  and  convents  are  in  a dilapidated 
state,  though  still  interesting  in  what  they 
reveal  of  ancient  customs  and  present-day 
conditions.  A recent  visitor  to  the  convent 
asked  to  see  certain  rooms  and  was  informed 

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HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


that  they  were  occupied  bv  the  priest  of  the 
adjoining  parish  and  his  family,  consisting  of 
two  sons  and  two  daughters.  One  of  the 
daughters  politely  offered  to  act  as  escort. 
Some  of  the  rooms  contain  discarded  images. 
Off  the  corridor  below  are  rooms  which,  when 
the  doors  are  closed,  have  neither  light  nor 
air.  A small  aperture  in  the  wall  of  one  room 
was  formerly  used  for  passing  food  through 
to  a refractory  nun.  'Hie  windows  are  heavily 
barred. 

In  another  convent  of  the  village  the 
.Mother  Superior  speaks  to  the  visitors  through 
a small  opening  in  the  wall  at  the  right  of 
the  entrance.  On  the  occasion  of  my  visit 
she  wore  a garment  of  coarse  brown  serge 
with  a long  rosary  and  a heavy  silver  cross 
suspended  from  her  neck.  A white  band  on 
her  forehead  and  a veil  did  not  completely 
hide  her  pleasant  features.  After  passing  the 
compliments  of  the  day  I expressed  a desire 
to  purchase  some  JiscipUnds — instruments  of 
self-flagellation  used  throughout  .Me.xico.  She 
replied  that  she  thought  there  were  none  on 
hand  but  that  she  could  order  some.  How- 
ever, she  found  a rope  disci plina  with  five 
braided  thongs,  which  she  said  was  the  only 

184 


CHURCH  AND  CONVENT  AT  FOOT  OF  PYRAMID,  ATLIXCO 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


one  for  sale.  She  then  left  the  room  but  soon 
returned  with  an  iron  scourge  with  spikes  in 
it.  I remarked,  “That  is  what  I want,”  to 
which  she  replied,  “It  is  not  for  sale,  as  it  is 
in  use  in  the  convent.”  When  I informed  her 
that  I was  visiting  in  Atlixco  and  would  be 
leaving  soon  she  went  out  again  and  on  her 
return  she  was  accompanied  by  a young  nun 
also  veiled.  She  then  told  me  I could  have 
the  disci  pi  ina.  I asked  her  how  often  these 
instruments  were  used,  to  which  she  replied, 
“The  rope  one  is  used  once  a day  during  the 
months  of  December  and  January,  twice  a 
day  the  rest  of  the  year.”  The  iron  disciplinn, 
she  said,  was  used  “according  to  the  dictates 
of  the  father  confessor.”  It  may  be  said  here 
that  in  using  the  iron  disciplina  the  back  of 
the  victim  is  stripped  and  is  whipped  alter- 
nately over  each  shoulder,  until  not  merely 
blood  is  drawn  but  the  flesh  lacerated. 

Before  my  departure  the  Mother  Superior 
directed  a servant  to  show  me  the  private 
chapel  where  hangs  a large  figure  of  Christ  on 
the  cross,  to  which  sanctuary  the  nuns  are 
accustomed  to  go  at  various  hours  after  mid- 
night and  pray.  At  this  particular  time  there 
were  fifteen  young  women  in  the  convent. 

187 


CHAPTER  IX 

THE  CHURCH  OF  OCOTLAN, 
TLAXCALA 

THE  PARISH  CHURCH  OF  SAN 
MIGUEL  DE  ALLENDE 

THE  CHURCH  OF  EL  ROBLE, 
MONTEREY 


CHAPTER  IX 


THE  CHURCH  OF  OCOTLAN, 
TLAXCALA 

It  has  been  customary  in  Mexico  to  erect  a 
church  on  the  site  of  every  apparition  of  the 
Virgin.  As  the  story  goes,  she  appeared  near 
Ocotlan  when  there  was  an  epidemic  of 
smallpox  and  a great  scarcity  of  water.  Where 
a marvelous  spring  gushed  forth  a building 
was  erected. 

An  Indian  sculptor,  Francisco  Miguel, 
spent  twenty-five  years  in  executing  an  interior 
which  resembles  a grotto.  Vast  sums  of 
money  were  lavished  upon  the  embellishment 
of  the  church  and  of  the  camarin  (where 
images  are  dressed),  the  latter  a marvel  of 
artistic  beauty.  In  1852  the  interior  was  par- 
tially modernized  by  Sehora  Zabalda.  The 
floor  of  the  chapel  is  covered  with  thick 
tapestry  of  quaint  and  beautiful  design.  The 
altar  is  of  silver  and  has  a figure  of  solid  gold 
in  the  shrine.  The  crown  of  the  Virgin  is  of 

191 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


wrought  gold,  set  with  emeralds,  rubies,  and 
diamonds. 

The  ceremony  of  her  coronation  in  June, 
1907,  was  authorized  by  a special  papal  bull. 
There  were  present  the  apostolic  delegate,  an 
archbishop  and  bishops  from  three  other  sees 
and  an  immense  outpouring  of  people.  The 
Virgin  of  Ocotlan  is  the  idol  of  the  Indians 
of  Tlaxcala,  much  as  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe 
is  of  the  common  people  of  the  entire  country. 
Indeed,  the  legends  of  the  appearing  of  the 
two  Virgins  have  much  in  common. 

The  authorized  version  of  the  Legend  of 
this  Virgin  is  contained  in  A History  of  Our 
Lady  of  Ocotlan,  published  in  Puebla  in  1907, 
and  dedicated  to  the  first  archbishop  of  the 
diocese.  This  relates  how  a servant  of  God, 
Juan  Diego,  was  unable  to  find  medicine  with 
which  to  cure  his  parents,  victims  of  the  ter- 
rible scourge  of  small po.\.  Frequently  cross- 
ing the  Zac]uapan  River,  it  occurred  to  him  to 
fill  his  pitcher  with  that  water,  to  which  is 
attributed  a curative  power.  Going  up  a hill 
called  San  Lorenzo,  absorbed  in  the  thought 
of  his  sick  parents,  a most  beautiful  woman 
presented  herself  and  said:  “God  save  you, 
my  son,  where  goest  thou?”  He  answered,  “I 

192 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


^o,  my  lady,  to  my  town  and  am  taking  water 
of  the  Zaquapan  to  cure  my  sick  ones  who  die 
without  remedy.”  “Come,”  the  woman  said, 
“follow  me,  and  I will  give  you  of  another 
water  that  will  not  only  cure  your  parents, 
but  all  who  drink  of  it;  for  my  heart,  always 
inclined  to  help  the  suffering,  cannot  endure 
to  see  so  many  misfortunes  without  remedying 
them.”  The  Indian  followed  his  guide  until 
they  arrived  at  a small  plain,  covered  with 
pine  trees,  and  she  showed  him  a spring  of 
pure  water.  “Take  all  of  this  water  you 
want,”  she  said,  “and  all  who  take  it  will  be 
free  from  sickness.  Also  tell  the  fathers  of 
the  Convent  of  San  Francisco  that  in  one  of 
the  trees  they  will  find  my  image,  and  that  I 
wish  it  put  in  the  high  altar  of  the  Chapel  of 
San  Lorenzo.”  At  sunset  the  same  day  Juan 
Diego  started  on  his  customary  journey.  The 
fathers  and  some  people  from  the  village  fol- 
lowed him  without  his  knowledge.  To  their 
surprise,  they  saw  the  pines  burning  without 
being  consumed ; among  them  was  one,  the 
largest,  which  burned  more  than  the  others. 
In  this  tree  was  the  image  of  “the  Holy 
Queen.”  To  this  fire  was  added  the  sound  of 
sweet  music,  and  it  was  then  that  Juan  listened 

193 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


to  the  Queen  of  Heaven  and  spoke  to  her 
again,  receiving  directions  concerning  the 
place  where  she  should  be  worshiped. 

The  following  day  a committee  from  the 
town,  presided  over  by  the  Indian,  arrived  at 
the  place.  Juan  Diego  struck  the  tree  with 
his  a.\;  the  bark  fell  and  they  saw  the  image 
of  the  “Queen  of  Glory.”  All  knelt  and 
adored  her  and  took  her  away  from  the  tree, 
and  in  compliance  with  her  expressed  wish 
conducted  her  to  the  chapel  of  the  glorious 
martyr,  San  Lorenzo,  to  be  known  henceforth 
as  “The  Sanctuary  of  the  Holy  Lady.” 

The  image  was  left  in  the  place  formerly 
occupied  by  San  Lorenzo,  but  the  fathers  did 
not  take  into  account  that  the  sexton  was  a 
devout  servant  of  the  martyr.  When  he  closed 
the  chapel  that  night  the  sexton  took  the  image 
of  the  Virgin  and  placed  it  on  one  side  of  the 
high  altar,  and  restored  San  Lorenzo  to  his 
accustomed  place.  But  the  next  day  the  sex- 
ton saw  that  the  images  were  as  the  fathers 
had  placed  them,  and  he  again  changed  them 
and  took  the  figure  of  the  Virgin  to  his  home; 
but  on  waking  up  the  next  morning  he  could 
not  find  it,  and,  going  to  the  church,  he  saw 
it  in  the  place  of  San  Lorenzo.  Then,  in  tears, 

194 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


he  went  to  the  fathers  and  begged  their 
pardon. 

Formerly  the  image  was  called  “The  Virgin 
of  Ocotlatia,”  or  “The  Lady  of  the  Burning 
Pines,”  but  now  she  is  known  as  “The  Lady 
of  Ocotlan.” 

In  what  esteem  the  Virgin  of  Ocotlan  is 
held  by  not  merely  the  uneducated  natives 
but  also  the  rich  and  cultured  is  shown  by  the 
following  testimonial  published  as  late  as 
1907.  (The  translation  is  almost  literal.) 

“Sehora  M.  de  Z , on  a certain  occa- 

sion, had  a coachman,  sick  with  a contagious 

disease.  Mrs.  Z , out  of  charity,  cared  for 

the  sick  man,  believing  that  with  caution  she 
would  not  take  the  disease.  However,  she 
came  down  with  it  in  its  worst  form.  The 
most  noted  physicians  were  called  to  attend 
her,  but  all  were  of  the  opinion  that  there 
was  no  remedy.  Therefore,  Mrs.  Z in- 

voked ‘Our  Lady  of  Ocotlan,’  and,  in  a few 
days,  was  completely  restored  to  health.  In 

recognition  of  this  great  favor,  Mrs.  Z 

donated  $2,000  (silver)  for  a dress  and  mantle 
for  the  image  of  ‘Our  Lady  of  Ocotlan,’  and 
ordered  it  made  in  Paris.  It  is  sea-blue  velvet 
with  a fine  border  of  gold.  Mrs.  Z 

195 


ex- 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


pected  to  be  present  at  the  ceremony  of  dress- 
ing the  image,  but  was  stricken  with  a pul- 
monary disease.  The  doctors  said  there  was 
no  hope  for  her.  But  as  the  sick  woman 
very  much  desired  to  see  the  Virgin  in  her 
new  dress,  she  consulted  the  doctors  to  know 
if  she  could  live  for  the  forty-eight  hours 
required  to  go  from  Me.xico  City  to  Ocotlan 
in  her  carriage.  Although  the  physicians 
would  not  assure  her  that  her  life  would  be 
spared  that  long  the  sick  woman  made  the 
attempt,  accompanied  by  a priest,  a doctor, 
and  some  members  of  her  family.  After  a 
long  and  painful  journey  she  arrived  at  the 
sanctuary.  She  was  immediately  taken  to  the 
cdwerin,  the  place  behind  the  altar  where 
images  are  dressed.  The  most  Holy  Virgin 
was  then  brought  down  to  have  the  new  dress 

put  upon  her.  While  Mrs.  Z watched 

the  proceedings,  she  was  full  of  gratitude  for 
having  her  life  prolonged  to  see  her  desire 
fulfilled,  and  said:  ‘N<)w,  my  Lady,  thou  hast 
given  me  the  privilege  to  see  that  which  I 
have  so  longed  for,  and  now  thou  canst  dis- 
pose of  thy  servant.’  But,  to  the  surprise  of 
all,  the  sick  one  began  to  rally  and  in  a short 
time  was  entirely  recovered. 

196 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


“In  testimony  of  her  gratitude  she  reno- 
vated the  sanctuary,  erected  beautiful  altars, 
masterpieces  of  art,  in  which  work  she  ex- 
pended thousands  of  dollars,  guided  by  her 
son,  who  is  now  an  archbishop  of  the  church. 
She  built  a house  near  by,  where  she  spent 
the  remainder  of  her  days  in  praise  to  the 
benevolent  Mother  for  interceding  in  her 
behalf.  At  her  death  the  son  donated  the 
house  as  a school  for  poor  girls.” 


THE  PARISH  CHURCH  OF  SAN 
MIGUEL  DE  ALLENDE, 
GUANAJUATO 

The  town  of  San  Miguel  de  Allende, 
which  was  named  for  the  faithful  general  of 
the  patriot  priest  Hidalgo,  is  in  the  state 
of  Guanajuato,  two  hundred  and  seventeen 
miles  from  Mexico  City.  In  1880  the  arch- 
bishop of  the  diocese  gave  this  parish  per- 
mission to  build  a church  to  take  the  place  of 
the  cylindrical  structure  which  had  been 
erected  in  the  eighteenth  century.  The  parish 
priest  engaged  as  the  designer  and  builder  of 
the  proposed  new  church  Zeferino  Gutierrez, 

197 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


a local  genius,  who  had  never  been  out  of  the 
village  of  his  birth.  It  is  stated  that  he  could 
not  read  or  write,  and  up  to  the  time  he  was 
engaged  for  this  work  he  had  never  seen  a 
Gothic  building.  Each  day  he  drew  his  plans 
for  that  day’s  work  in  the  sand  with  a stick. 
His  death  in  1884  left  the  church  unfinished, 
but  enough  was  done  to  demonstrate  the  e.\- 
traordinary  talents  of  its  designer  and  builder. 

THE  CHURCH  OF  EL  ROBLE, 
MONTEREY 

This  massive  structure  was  begun  in  1792 
and  consecrated  in  July,  1833.  During  the 
American  War  (1843-48)  it  was  used  as  a 
powder  magazine,  its  walls  and  towers  as  late 
as  1904  showing  the  marks  made  by  the  bullets 
of  the  invaders. 

The  legend  circulated  by  the  natives  in 
regard  to  this  building  is  to  the  effect  that  a 
monk  many  years  ago  was  in  the  habit  of 
spending  many  hours  in  private  devotion 
under  the  branches  of  a large  oak.  One 
morning  the  image  of  the  Virgin,  which  is 
now  in  the  Church  of  El  Roble  (The  Oak), 
and  wliich  is  nearly  as  black  as  a similar  one 

198 


CHURCH  OF  SAN  MIGUEL  DE  ALLENDE 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


at  Monscrrat,  Spain,  was  observed  in  the 
heart  of  the  tree,  ddie  news  spread  rapidly, 
and  so  great  was  the  enthusiasm  of  the  people 
that  they  erected  a chapel  called  “El  Roble” 
and  enshrined  the  image  therein.  The  Virgin 


RUINS  OF  EL  ROBLE  CHURCH 

suffered  herself  to  remain  in  this  new  home 
during  the  day,  but  at  night,  though  the  door 
was  securely  fastened,  she  managed  to  get  out 
and  returned  to  her  abode  in  the  tree.  But 
the  tree  was  one  day  shivered  by  lightning 
and  the  image  therefore  was  compelled  to 
remain  in  the  chapel.  When  the  Cathedral 
was  finished  the  bishop  appointed  a day  for 

201 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  image  to  be  transferred  to  a special  place 
prepared  for  it  in  the  new  building,  which 
was  done  with  much  enthusiasm.  However, 
the  next  morning  after  the  transfer  was  made 
the  sacred  image  was  found  to  be  missing 
from  its  new  home.  Going  to  the  chapel  of 
El  Roble,  the  figure  of  the  Virgin  was  found 
occupying  its  old  place,  its  garments  showing 
the  dust  of  travel.  It  was  decided  that  it 
would  be  useless  to  try  to  make  the  image  stay 
at  the  Cathedral,  as  neither  bolts  nor  locks 
were  proof  against  it,  and  it  was  given  over 
formally  to  the  little  Church  of  the  Oak. 

The  following  quotation  from  a daily  paper, 
published  as  late  as  1905,  indicates  how  gen- 
eral is  the  belief  in  and  respect  for  these  old 
legends : 

“With  the  collapse  of  the  dome  of  the  Roble 
Church  of  Monterey  one  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent structures  in  northern  Mexico  was  re- 
duced to  ruins.  Without  warning  the  crash 
came  on  the  night  of  October  24,  completely 
demolishing  the  entire  church.  . . . One  of 
the  most  miraculous  incidents  connected  with 
the  destruction  of  the  Roble  Church  was  the 
preservation  of  the  Virgin  del  Roble.  This 
image,  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  basilica,  had 

202 


Waite  Photo. 


VIRGIN  OF  THE  ROSARY  IN  SANTO  DOMINGO 
DE  GUZMAN  CHURCH,  QUER^TARO,  ONE 
OF  THE  MOST  BEAUTIFUL  AND 
RICHLY  ADORNED  OF  THE 
MODERN  MADONNAS 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


occupied  a central  position  upon  a high  throne 
of  bronze  over  the  altar,  and,  though  the  walls 
of  the  basilica  were  entirely  annihilated,  the 
image  was  unharmed.  It  fell  to  the  stone 
floor  from  a height  of  nearly  seven  meters, 
the  bronze  altar  which  fell  with  it  being  irrep- 
arably demolished.  Two  huge  blocks  of 
stone,  weighing  several  hundred  pounds  each, 
fell  directly  upon  the  image,  but  at  such  an 
angle  that  they  protected  it  from  the  mass  of 
stone  and  debris  which  afterward  covered  the 
sacred  relic  with  a pyramid  of  mortar  and 
stone.  Everything  else  was  broken  into  un- 
recognizable fragments.  But  when  the  Virgin 
was  taken  out  it  was  discovered  that  she  had 
not  received  the  least  injury.  Indeed,  the 
robes  of  the  Virgin  were  hardly  flecked  with 
the  dust  from  the  pulverized  mortar  which 
covered  everything  else.  This  wonderful 
phenomenon  is  considered  a divine  interven- 
tion, and  is  so  explained  by  the  curate  in 
charge.  There  is  no  reason  to  doubt  the  justice 
of  this  claim,  as  many  persons  of  unquestion- 
able integrity  have  been  to  see  the  Virgin, 
and  they  testify  that  she  is  the  identical  Virgin 
del  Roble.  No  explanation  other  than  this  is 
plausible.” 


205 


CHAPTER  X 

THE  CHURCHES  OF  QUERETARO 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SANTA  ROSA 
THE  SANTA  CLARA  CHURCH  AND  CONVENT 
THE  SANTA  CRUZ  CHURCH,  QUERETARO 


CHAPTER  X 


CHURCHES  OF  QUERETARO 
THE  CHURCH  OF  SANTA  ROSA 

No  description  can  do  justice  to  this  won- 
derful church.  Its  foundation  was  laid  in 
the  seventeenth  century,  its  interior  recon- 
structed near  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury by  Edward  Tresquerras,  poet,  painter, 
sculptor,  and  engraver,  who  was  born  at 
Celaya,  west  of  Queretaro,  in  the  year  1765. 

The  approach  to  the  church  is  command- 
ing. P'rom  the  street  one  ascends  steps  lead- 
ing to  a wide  stone  pavement  extending  the 
full  length  of  the  building.  The  two  flying 
buttresses  of  stone,  with  their  grotesque 
gargoyles,  extend  out  over  this  pavement  at 
the  corner  where  rises  a tower  of  Oriental 
design  which,  with  the  dome,  are  as  Tres- 
querras left  them.  It  is  generally  believed 
that  the  enormous  expense  of  the  tower,  dome, 
and  cloisters  was  all  realized  by  the  sale  of 
merchandise  seized  from  smugglers  who  in- 
fested the  gulf  coast. 


209 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


The  eye  takes  in  at  a glance  the  magnificent 
view  of  the  small  interior.  The  altars  and 


s.wT.x  ci..\R.\  ciirkcii,  querOaro 

reredos  are  a mass  of  gilt  ornaments,  and  there 
are  many  huge  sculptured  figures,  fine  paint- 
ings, rich  wood  carvings,  and  grilled  bal- 

210 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


conies.  In  former  years  the  Mother  Superior 
and  the  nuns  occupied  these  screened  balco- 
nies, where  they  could  listen  unobserved.  A 
large  crucifix  on  the  wall  opposite  the  en- 
trance is  also  the  work  of  Tresquerras.  Its 
carving  is  probably  unsurpassed  by  the  work 
of  any  modern  artist  in  Mexico.  On  the  wall 
at  the  right  of  the  entrance  are  six  oval  paint- 
ings representing  scenes  in  the  life  of  the 
Virgin,  each  painting  being  garlanded  with 
a wreath  made  of  green  lacquer  alternating 
with  gold,  resembling  the  laurel  wreath  be- 
stowed on  the  victor  in  a Roman  contest.  On 
the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a large  painting  of 
Saint  Nicholas  of  Bari,  the  patron  saint  of 
Russia,  who,  on  the  death  of  his  uncle,  the 
archbishop,  was  appointed  his  successor.  He 
showed  himself  the  special  protector  of  the 
innocent  and  wronged,  and  is  pictured  stand- 
ing by  the  side  of  a tub  in  which  a man 
had  concealed  the  bodies  of  three  children 
whom  he  had  murdered,  but  who  had  been 
restored  to  life  by  the  saint.  According  to 
the  traditional  account,  the  body  of  Saint 
Nicholas,  who  died  in  the  year  342,  was  trans- 
ferred in  1087  to  Bari,  Italy.  During  all 
these  years  “the  manna  of  Saint  Nicholas 


211 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  ^MEXICO 


still  flows  from  his  bones  and  heals  all  kinds 
of  infirmities.”  In  the  center  of  the  left  wall 
are  paintings  in  green  lacquer  wreaths,  in 
which  are  depicted  the  four  scenes  of  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  Virgin  to  Juan  Diego  at 
Guadalupe.  The  side  altars,  which  are  sur- 
mounted by  statues  of  angels  and  saints  done 
in  gold  leaf,  have  been  pronounced  by  Fred- 
erick Church,  the  well-known  American 
artist  and  connoisseur,  as  unique  in  their 
beauty.  The  choir  screen  is  superb.  Back 
of  the  wrought-iron  grill-work  on  the  ground 
floor  is  the  great  organ,  and  above  this  grill- 
work  are  paintings  of  saints  enclosed  in  the 
lac(]uer  wreaths.  Above  the  paintings  is  a 
screen  of  fanciful  design,  and  above  that,  com- 
pletely filling  the  arch,  an  e.xquisite  piece  of 
wrought-iron  work  with  the  figure  of  Santa 
Rosa  in  the  center  under  a canopy  having  the 
form  of  a corrugated  shell. 

At  the  head  of  the  sacristy,  covering  the 
entire  wall,  is  a mural  decoration  called  “The 
Closed  Garden,”  for  which  I resquerras  re- 
ceived $i5,cxx)  (silver).  The  painting  has  a 
grayish-blue  tone,  its  figures  being  e.xceed- 
ingly  graceful  and  lifelike.  The  scene  is 
allegorical,  representing  nuns  and  their  pupils 

212 


ELABORATELY  CARVED  PULPIT  AND  COLUMNS 
OF  SANTA  CLARA  CHURCH 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


in  a convent  garden  in  the  midst  of  fruits  and 
dowers.  In  the  center  of  the  picture  Christ 
is  shown  hanging  from  the  branch  of  a tree. 
At  his  feet  are  lambs  holding  in  their  mouths 
white  roses  (a  symbol  of  Santa  Rosa)  which 
are  to  be  turned  red  by  the  blood  of  his 
wounds.  At  the  left  stands  an  angel  offering 
a vase  of  roses  and  lilies,  on  the  former  of 
which  there  flows  from  the  Saviour’s  side 
water,  on  the  latter,  blood. 

Upon  the  high  altar,  with  upturned  face 
and  clasped  hands,  is  the  image  of  Santa  Rosa, 
in  whose  honor  the  church  is  named.  She 
was  born  in  Lima  in  1586,  and  was  the  first 
canonized  saint  of  the  New  World.  She  was 
christened  Isabel  but  called  Rose  for  the 
beauty  of  her  infant  face.  When  in  the  cradle 
her  silence  under  a painful  surgical  operation 
early  proved  that  courage  and  patience  under 
suffering  which  later  developed  into  a con- 
suming zeal.  At  an  early  age  she  worked 
night  and  day  to  support  her  parents,  who  had 
lost  their  fortune.  In  spite  of  hardships  and 
austerities  her  beauty  ripened  with  increasing 
age,  and  she  was  greatly  admired.  For  fear 
of  becoming  vain  she  cut  off  her  beautiful 
hair  and  blistered  her  face  with  pepper  and 

215 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


her  hands  with  lime.  She  redoubled  her 
penance.  Her  cell  was  a garden  hut,  her 
couch  a box  of  broken  tiles.  Under  her  habit 
she  wore  a hair  shirt  studded  with  iron  nails. 
Concealed  by  her  \'eil  she  wore  a silver  crown 
armed  with  ninety  iron  points.  More  than 
once,  when  she  shuddered  at  the  prospect  of 
a night  of  torture,  she  seemed  to  hear  a voice 
saying,  “My  cross  was  yet  more  painful.”  All 
her  sufferings  were  borne  for  the  conversion 
of  sinners.  The  thought  of  the  multitudes  in 
hell  was  always  in  her  mind  and  upon  her 
soul.  She  died  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-one. 

THE  SANT.A  CLARA  CHURCH  AND  CONVENT 

This  church  is  peculiar  in  construction, 
comprising  what  is  in  reality  two  buildings  in 
one,  each  having  its  own  separate  entrance. 
One  of  these  entrances,  now  closed,  opened 
into  the  chapel  used  formerly  by  the  nuns  of 
the  Santa  Clara  convent.  The  other  door 
leads  into  the  main  church,  whose  long  nave 
is  divided  from  the  chapel  by  a screen  of 
wrought-iron  grill-work. 

The  central  one  of  the  three  altars  on  one 
side  of  the  church  is  devoted  to  “The  Sacred 

216 


Waite  Photo. 

RICH  CARVING  IN  SANTA  ROSA  CHURCH, 
QUERIiTARO 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


Heart  of  Jesus,”  represented  by  a heart  of  im- 
mense size  with  a gilt  nimbus  having  a gilded 
ornamental  canopy  overhead  shaped  like  a 
shell.  Similar  designs  flank  the  central  figure. 
In  the  center  of  this  altar  stands  a life-size 
and  very  white  image  of  Christ  with  a skirt 
about  the  loins.  It  is  called  “The  Christ  of 
the  Column.”  The  image  represents  the  Lord 
chained  to  a white  post  or  short  column.  A 
long,  dark  wig  falls  over  the  shoulders  and 
the  back  shows  the  flaying  by  scourges.  It  is 
most  gruesome  and  is  distinctly  out  of  place 
in  the  midst  of  such  rich  and  elegant  orna- 
mentation. Embedded  in  a mass  of  free 
carved  wood  tracings  is  an  image  of  the 
Virgin,  La  Purisima,  in  white  and  blue  robes, 
with  garlands  of  roses  at  her  feet. 

The  sides  of  the  central  altar  are  of  open 
work,  the  projecting  leaves  and  flowers  being 
carved  wood.  The  passion  flower  in  carved 
wood  adorns  one  side.  A fringe  of  green 
lacquer  depends  from  the  cornices.  The  oppo- 
site altar  and  the  pulpit  have  festoons  of 
carved  wood  in  flowers,  foliage,  and  fruit, with 
gilt  images  resting  on  either  side  of  the  altar 
which  hold  huge  cornucopias  filled  with 
harvest  reapings,  all  in  gilt  ornamentation. 

219 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


The  dome  contains  eight  square  windows, 
with  old-fashioned  small  panes  of  glass.  The 
depth  between  the  window  casing  and  the 
outer  edge  of  the  wall  is  three  feet,  showing 
the  thickness  of  the  masonry,  and  this  space 
is  lined  with  gold-leaf  throughout. 

The  chapel  has  a large  painting  of  The 
Last  Supper,  showing  nuns  in  the  foreground 
with  their  faces  upturned  in  adoration.  This 
painting  was  dedicated  to  the  convent  of  Santa 
Clara  by  the  artist  in  the  year  1783. 

Every  church  of  importance  had  a convent 
adjoining  it,  which  in  former  years  often 
played  a more  conspicuous  part  than  the 
church  itself.  Generally  only  the  daughters 
of  rich  families  were  admitted  as  nuns  who 
brought  with  them  a dowry  of  at  least  a thou- 
sand pesos  as  a wedding  present,  for  they 
were  henceforth  to  be  regarded  as  the  brides 
of  Christ.  Some  young  women  gave  as  much 
as  five  thousand  pesos,  and  we  read  of  one 
who  presented  an  entire  block  of  real  estate 
as  her  dowry.  The  Santa  Clara  Convent  at 
one  time  housed  eight  thousand  nuns. 

In  a side  street  is  a cliapel  once  a part  of 
the  convent,  with  one  dome,  now  used  as  a 
carpenter  shop,  of  which  the  entire  floor  and 

2JO 


Waite  Photo. 


PULPIT  SANTA  ROSA  CHURCH,  QUERETARO 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  altar  platform  is  laid  in  tiles.  This  was 
the  nuns’  private  chapel. 

The  convent  of  Santa  Clara  is  famous  for 
its  part  in  the  Revolution  of  1859-1861. 


THE  SANTA  CRUZ  CHURCH,  QUERETARO 

Ne.ARLV  four  centuries  ago  when  the  people 
of  Queretaro  were  pure  Indians  and  still  ad- 
hered to  the  religion  of  their  ancestors,  the 
chiefs  of  Tapeji  and  Tula,  with  a large  fol- 
lowing of  their  Spanish  allies,  set  out  to  con- 
quer and  baptize  them  in  accordance  with  the 
rites  of  the  Catholic  Church.  When  near 
Queretaro  they  sent  ahead  with  proposals  of 
peace  an  emissary  whom  the  people  of 
Queretaro  did  not  receive  very  kindly,  as  they 
naturally  did  not  wdsh  to  surrender  to  a 
stranger  their  lands  and  homes,  to  say  nothing 
of  their  faith,  without  a struggle.  As  the 
Spanish  were  mail-clad,  the  Indians  reasoned 
wisely  that  it  would  be  foolish  for  them  to 
attack  them  with  bows  and  arrows.  They 
accordingly  returned  answer  that  they  were 
ready  to  fight  and  proposed  fists  as  the  only 
weapons  to  be  used  by  both  sides.  The  novel 
proposition  was  accepted,  and  on  July  25, 

223 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


1531,  early  in  the  morning  the  battle  began. 
All  day  long  the  fight  continued.  How  much 
longer  it  might  have  lasted  no  one  can  tell, 
had  not  the  appearance  in  the  heavens  of  an 
angel  with  a fiery  cross  put  a stop  to  the 


CHURCH  OF  I..\  CRUZ.  QUFRCr\RO 

struggle.  Such,  at  least,  is  the  story  believed 
by  the  faithful. 

'Hie  Spaniards  claimed  the  victory,  but, 
according  to  tlie  account,  the  vanquished,  in 
the  characteristic  manner  of  their  race,  spent 
the  night  in  merry-making,  with  no  sign  of 
discouragement  or  rebellion.  'I'hey  professed 
to  recognize  his  Majesty,  Charles  V,  as  their 

224 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


ruler.  They  were  baptized,  the  conflict 
which  preceded  being  celebrated  afterward 
as  “The  Battle  of  Baptism.”  There  was  then 
erected  a large  gray  stone  cross  from  which 
the  church  takes  its  name.  The  cross  now 
stands  in  the  church  at  the  rear  of  the  high 
altar  in  a glass  case. 

In  Maximilian’s  day  there  was  an  immense 
painting,  extending  across  the  wall  of  the 
church,  for  which  the  artist  was  offered 
$25,000  (silver),  but  which  he  refused.  This 
painting  afterward  mysteriously  disappeared. 

It  is  of  historical  interest  to  know  that 
Maximilian,  when  in  Queretaro  in  1867,  had 
his  headquarters  in  this  church,  the  old  con- 
vent adjoining  being  used  by  his  besieged 
troops  as  barracks.  During  an  unexpected 
assault  on  the  city  by  General  Escobedo, 
Maximilian  was  urged  to  flee.  He  made  his 
escape  to  the  so-called  “Hill  of  the  Bells,” 
near  the  city,  from  which  a white  flag  was 
soon  afterward  displayed  and  Maximilian 
delivered  over  his  sword  to  the  Republican 
officer.  For  a few  days  during  the  progress 
of  his  trial,  Maximilian  was  confined  in  the 
convent  of  the  Capuchinas  in  the  heart  of 
the  city. 


225 


✓ V 


CHAPTER  XI 

THE  CHURCHES  OF  VERA  CRUZ 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO 
THE  PAROCHIAL  CHURCH 
THE  CHURCH  OF  SAN  AGUSTIN 
THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  BLACK  CHRIST 


CHAPTER  XI 


CHURCHES  OF  VERA  CRUZ 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO 

The  San  Francisco  Church  of  Vera  Cruz 
was  founded  by  the  early  conquerors  in  1568. 
For  a long  time  it  was  supported  mainly  by 
a special  tax  imposed  upon  all  ships  entering 
that  port.  In  common  with  all  other  churches 
it  was  confiscated  in  18 159,  and  later  devoted 
to  secular  use.  The  tower  is  now  a lighthouse 
and  bears  the  name  of  Benito  Juarez,  Mex- 
ico’s “little  Indian”  President.  The  main 
part  of  the  edifice  houses  a public  library  of 
great  value  and  a small  but  interesting 
museum. 


THE  PAROCHIAL  CHURCH 

This  church  was  dedicated  in  1734  to  the 
Virgin  of  the  Assumption.  It  is  very  plain 
and  not  too  clean.  There  are  numerous 
grotesque  figures  in  chalk  and  wood  which 
quite  fill  the  interior.  Figured  cherubim, 

229 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


saints,  and  patriarchs  are  standing,  others  are 
shouldering  crosses,  and  still  others  are 
stretched  in  coffins — all  denoting  agony.  The 
sight  is  really  repulsive.  The  figure  of  the 
Virgin  on  the  high  altar  is  under  a peculiar 
canopy.  The  baldachin  consists  of  pointed 
arches  constructed  of  wood. 

In  a side  room  is  an  altar  of  carved  wood, 
resembling  a ponderous  mantelpiece.  The 
reredos  reaches  to  the  high  ceiling.  The 
lower  shelf  is  for  the  books  and  communion 
service  for  masses. 

I'he  towers  and  the  lantern  surrounding 
the  cupola,  and  even  the  cross,  form  a roost- 
ing place  for  buzzards,  which  were  called  by 
the  Aztecs  “the  sacred  birds  of  mystery.” 
I hese  congregate  in  hundreds  by  nightfall, 
causing  considerable  noise  by  their  wrangling 
for  sleeping  places,  seeming  to  prefer  the 
church  to  private  dwellings.  When  morning 
dawns  on  the  black  and  motionless  mass  of 
birds  the  roof  resembles  a hearse  covered 
with  black  plumes,  d'hese  unattractive  crea- 
tures spend  the  daytime  near  restaurants,  or 
perched  upon  the  ambulating  garbage  carts, 
riiough  their  habits  are  very  offensive  the 
authorities  will  not  allow  them  to  be  killed, 

230 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


a fine  of  five  pesos  being  imposed  upon  who- 
ever injures  them,  because  the  buzzards  con- 
stitute the  scavenger  department  of  Vera 
Cruz. 


THE  CHURCH  OF  SAN  AGUSTIN 

The  Church  of  San  Agustin  is  now  used  as 
a dry  goods  store,  the  dome  and  arched  roof 
giving  a somewhat  incongruous  appearance  to 
the  establishment. 

It  was  in  San  Agustin,  according  to  com- 
mon belief  which  is  entirely  credible,  that  a 
large  portion  of  the  population  of  Vera  Cruz 
was  gathered  when  the  town  was  sacked  by 
pirates  who  appeared  to  recognize  the  King 
of  France  as  their  ruler,  but  who  otherwise 
acted  as  though  the  only  law  was  their  own 
will  or  pleasure.  In  an  old  church  register 
written  by  the  parish  priest,  Agustin  Villa- 
roll,  appears  the  following  account  of  the 
looting  of  the  city.  The  translation  is  free 
and  is  largely  a summary: 

“Monday,  the  seventeenth  of  May,  1683,  a 
sail  was  seen  and  then  another  about  two 
leagues  distant,  which  were  thought  by  the 
fishermen  to  be  the  fleet  so  long  overdue.  So 
confident  were  the  people  that  they  retired 

231 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


tranquilly  to  their  homes,  believing  the  town 
perfectly  safe  from  attack. 

“At  four  o’clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
eighteenth  a fusillade  of  musketry,  followed 
by  the  whistling  of  bullets,  startled  the  sleep- 
ing population.  Loud  cries  were  then  heard 
of  ‘Long  live  the  King  of  France!’  It  proved 
to  be  an  invasion  of  pirates,  some  si.x  hundred 
of  the  savages  being  then  on  shore.  The  first 
person  killed  was  Captain  Jose  de  la  Higuera, 
then  Manuel  del  Rosario,  a priest  eighty 
years  of  age.  Families  only  half  dressed  were 
herded  together  in  the  plaza.  Finally,  the 
church  of  San  Agustin  was  broken  into,  and 
people  of  all  ages,  to  the  number  of  si.x 
thousand  or  more,  were  crowded  into  it,  while 
the  sacking  of  houses  and  stores  went  on. 

“On  the  third  day  the  robbers,  after  secur- 
ing about  everything  of  value  in  the  town, 
decided  to  murder  the  people  in  the  church. 
But  such  were  the  prayers  to  God  and  the 
cries  for  mercy  that  the  cut-throats,  hard- 
hearted as  they  were,  hesitated,  the  captain, 
Sehor  Ramon,  otherwise  known  as  Agra- 
monte,  ordering  a stay  of  proceedings. 

“In  order  to  secure  more  booty,  the  pirates 
in  desperation  began  to  search  the  altar  of  the 

232 


FUSTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


church,  where  they  found  six  silver  plates. 
They  stripped  the  images  of  the  saints  of  all 
silver  vestments  and  ornaments  of  value. 
They  then  began  to  torture  people  who  they 
thought  might  have  valuables  which  they  had 
failed  to  turn  over,  and  when  this  failed  the 
pirate  chief  got  up  in  the  pulpit  and  an- 
nounced that  he  had  given  orders  that  unless 
the  people  disclosed  the  hiding  places  of 
their  money  and  jewels  they  would  all  be 
burned  to  death.  So  terrible  was  this  threat 
that  the  people  were  for  the  moment  stricken 
dumb.  Seeing  that  his  words  brought  forth 
no  response,  the  blasphemous  scoundrel 
climbed  again  into  the  pulpit  and  invoked 
the  wrath  of  Almighty  God  upon  the  heads  of 
the  poor  people,  beseeching  Deity  to  allow 
no  one  to  escape  unless  he  divulged  the  hiding 
place  of  even  the  smallest  sum  of  money  he 
might  have  hidden  away. 

“At  that,  the  people  began  to  tell  where 
their  valuables  were,  and  the  pirates  going  to 
these  places  obtained,  by  this  second  effort,  a 
little  over  $600,000  (silver).  Agramonte 
was  furious  because  the  amount  was  so  small. 
The  pirates  left  no  stone  unturned  to  obtain 
more  money  and  treasure.  They  gathered  all 

233 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  wealthy  men  together,  but  while  parley- 
ing with  them,  seeing  horsemen  in  the  dis- 
tance, they  began  to  get  alarmed,  and  in  great 
haste  had  all  the  prisoners,  excepting  the 
priests,  removed  from  the  church,  whereupon 
the  pirate  chief  rode  his  horse  into  the  sanc- 
tuary even  to  the  pulpit  and  told  us  to  take 
up  the  march  but  to  keep  together.  Under 
escort  we  started  to  a place  to  the  south  of  the 
town  known  as  Los  Hornos,  where  we  were 
taken  in  boatloads  to  the  Island  of  Sacrificios 
about  two  miles  off  shore.  The  pirates  then 
selected  the  best  and  younger  of  both  sexes 
and  took  them  aboard  their  vessels,  and  later 
sold  them  on  the  Spanish  Main,  where  they 
found  a ready  market.” 

Father  Alegre,  in  his  history  of  the  Society 
of  Jesus  (Vol.  HI,  Book  IX),  gives  an  ac- 
count of  the  various  kinds  of  booty  secured 
by  the  pirates,  the  sum  total  of  which  was 
valued  at  $4,(xxvxx)  (silver). 

Till-:  CHURCH  OF  THE  HE.ACK  CHRIST' 

This  church  is  small  and  very  old.  It 
stands  where,  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago, 

‘ For  the  story  of  the  Black  Christ,  see  Chapter  V,  second 
subject. 


234 


SAN  BENITO,  THE  HOLY  NEGRO,  WITH  MANY 
VOTIVE  RIBBONS 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


the  pirates  made  their  prisoners  halt  while 
they  debated  the  question  of  putting  them  to 
death  while  on  their  way  to  the  landing  place, 
en  route  to  the  Sacrificios  Islands. 

The  image  of  the  Black  Christ  which  is 
worshiped  here  is  deep-brown  in  color  rather 
than  black,  and  hangs  upon  a crucifix  above 
the  altar  set  into  a large  brown  frame  with 
wooden  pillars  on  each  side  embedded  in  the 
wall.  Around  the  loins  of  the  image  is 
draped  a scarf  of  blue  satin  embroidered  in 
white.  Upon  the  head  rests  a cheap  crown, 
and  from  the  right  hand,  which  is  nailed  to 
the  cross,  hangs  a string  of  pink  paper  roses. 

At  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  church 
is  a statue  of  “La  Piedad”  (Pity),  which  is 
found  in  so  many  Mexican  churches.  She  is 
seated,  her  face  deathly  white,  and  the  deep 
black  eyes  looking,  almost  staring,  as  though 
still  witnessing  the  dying  agonies  of  the  Lord. 
A life-size  image  of  the  dead  Christ  lies 
across  her  knees,  so  low  that  it  seems  about 
to  roll  ofif,  and  with  the  feet  toward  the  church 
entrance.  The  neck,  mouth,  and  some  of  the 
fingers  are  made  to  represent  the  action  of 
decomposition. 

Nearly  all  the  images  and  pictures  have 

237 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


some  history  or  legend.  For  instance,  the  case 
of  Santa  Rita,  a nun,  with  a dagger  mark  on 
the  forehead,  contemplating  a skull  held  in 
her  hand.  A jealous  husband  struck  the 
dagger  into  her  forehead.  Later,  after  enter- 
ing the  nunnery,  she  contemplated  death  as 
a penance. 

Another  statue,  seen  in  many  churches,  is 
that  of  San  Benito,  the  Holy  Negro  and  faith- 
ful slave.  It  is  covered  with  new  ribbons. 
It  is  said  when  a woman  has  a husband  she 
does  not  like,  she  measures  him  with  a ribbon 
when  he  does  not  know  it,  then  hangs  the 
ribbon  on  the  saint  and  prays  that  her  hus- 
band may  die.  Another  is  the  statue  of  a man 
in  full  armor  on  a fiery  white  steed  under 
whose  hoofs  are  images  two  feet  in  length, 
dressed  in  blue  and  red  in  imitation  of  Moors. 
This  represents  Saint  James  fighting  the 
devil. 


238 


CHAPTER  XII 

THE  CHURCHES  OF  OAXACA 

THE  CHURCH  OF  LA  SOLEDAD 
THE  CHURCH  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO 


CHAPTER  XII 


CHURCHES  OF  OAXACA 

THE  CHURCH  OF  LA  SOLEDAD 

The  legend  of  the  founding  of  the  Church 
of  La  Soledad  (Solitude)  is  substantially  as 
follows : 

Thirty  years  after  Cortez  landed  in  Vera 
Cruz  a muleteer  was  driving  a caravan  of 
mules  laden  with  merchandise.  Approach- 
ing the  city  of  Oaxaca,  he  noticed  that 
another  mule,  much  superior  to  his  own, 
carrying  a covered  box,  had  joined  his  cara- 
van. He  endeavored  to  find  the  owner  of 
the  lost  animal,  but  without  success,  a cir- 
cumstance which  gave  him  great  anxiety,  lest 
the  charge  be  made  against  him  that  he  had 
stolen  the  animal.  Arriving  at  Oaxaca,  the 
strange  mule  dropped  in  front  of  a little 
church  by  the  roadside  as  though  unable  to 
carry  its  burden  any  further.  The  man  ran 
to  inform  the  alcalde  and  other  town  officers, 
who  hastened  to  the  place  where  the  pros- 

241 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


trated  mule  was  lying.  The  bands  that  held 
the  box  were  loosened,  and  when  the  lid  was 


VIRGIN  OF  L.\  SOLKD.XD,  WITH  ROHE  EMBROID- 
ERED WITH  PE.ARES,  .AND  WE.XRIXG  THE 
CROWN  COSTING  150,000  PESOS 


removed  the  image  of  a Virgin  was  found, 
together  with  a note  indicating  her  name — 
“Our  Lady  of  Solitude  at  d'he  Foot  of  the 
Cross.”  The  burden  liaving  been  removed 

242 


CHURCH  OF  LA  SOLEDAD,  OAXACA 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


from  the  mule’s  back,  the  animal  rose  and 
tried  to  stand,  but  he  trembled  violently  and 
fell  dead.  The  canon  in  charge  of  the  little 
church  sent  for  the  Bishop  of  Oaxaca.  Being 
impressed  with  the  wonderful  miracle,  he 
tenderly  carried  the  image  into  the  church 
and  guarded  it.  The  story  spread  rapidly 
among  the  superstitious  masses.  People  came 
from  all  parts  of  the  country  to  pay  homage 
to  the  Virgin.  They  presented  her  with 
pearls,  rubies,  diamonds,  and  other  precious 
stones,  pearls  from  the  Pacific  Coast  pre- 
dominating. 

I'he  rock  where  the  mule  fell,  and  over 
which  a church  was  built,  has  been  worn 
smooth  by  the  kisses  of  the  faithful  during 
these  four  centuries.  The  present  church 
was  built  at  a cost  of  nearly  $500,000  (silver) 
and  paid  for  by  a wealthy  merchant,  Senor 
Pedro  Caraval,  then  living  in  Oaxaca.  In 
1697  five  nuns  of  the  San  Agustin  Order  took 
charge  of  the  robes  and  jewelry  of  the  Virgin. 
A convent  was  built  next  to  the  church  and 
many  more  nuns  were  employed  constantly 
in  the  making  of  the  finest  clothing.  The 
image  possesses  a magnificent  wardrobe  of 
the  daintiest  hand-embroidered  lingerie.  The 

245 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


pearl-embroidered  robe  is  famous  through- 
out the  republic.  It  is  made  of  the  finest 
imported  black  silk  velvet,  and  a few  years 
ago  397,920  individual  pearls  were  counted 
embroidered  on  the  robe. 

On  January  18,  1908,  one  of  the  greatest 
religious  gatherings  ever  held  in  Mexico  took 
place  in  this  church,  when  a crown,  costing 
$150,000  (silver),  was  placed  upon  the  head 
of  the  image  by  the  Apostolic  Delegate  from 
Rome. 

In  October,  1866,  General  Porfirio  Diaz, 
afterward  for  so  many  years  President  of 
Mexico,  while  opposing  the  Imperialists 
under  General  Oronoz,  forced  his  way  into 
Oaxaca  and  finally  entered  the  sanctuary  of 
La  Soledad,  where  as  a poor  boy  he  had  often 
been  impressed  by  the  beauty  and  costliness 
of  the  Virgin’s  apparel.  He  seized  the  velvet 
dress,  so  heavily  embroidered  with  pearls,  the 
gold  stomacher,  encrusted  with  emeralds, 
pearls,  and  diamonds;  the  necklaces  of  spark- 
ling gems;  the  solid  crown  of  emeralds  and 
diamonds,  and  the  chalice  and  crosses  set  with 
rubies  and  other  precious  stones.  This  ward- 
robe, valued  at  $2,ooo,(XX)  (silver),  was  care- 
fully guarded  by  General  Diaz  until  the 

246 


Waite  Photo. 


SANTO  DOMINGO,  OAXACA 


♦ « 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


church  redeemed  it  by  the  payment  of 
$20,(X)0.  Since  then  the  church  authorities 
have  kept  the  hiding  place  of  these  jewels 
a profound  secret. 

THE  CHURCH  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO 

When  C ortez  had  settled  affairs  to  his 
satisfaction  in  the  valley  of  Mexico  he  sent 
a force  southward  to  subdue  the  inhabitants 
of  Oaxaca  and  thereby  open  a route  to  the 
port  of  Coatzalcoalcos  on  the  gulf,  thus 
securing  the  immense  deposits  of  gold  and 
silver  in  that  locality.  After  the  conquest  of 
that  part  of  Mexico  Charles  V of  Spain  pro- 
claimed Oaxaca  a city.  Government  build- 
ings were  erected,  tbe  foundations  of  five 
churches  were  laid,  and  those  foundation 
stones  remain  where  they  were  placed  four 
hundred  years  ago.  The  original  Cathedral 
which  took  the  place  of  a primitive  church 
was  completed  in  1730,  one  hundred  and 
seventy-seven  years  after  the  foundation  was 
laid.  Through  the  ravages  of  war  the  Cathe- 
dral was  despoiled  of  its  decorations,  and 
nothing  is  left  of  it  of  special  interest  to  the 
visitor. 

In  the  year  1575  it  was  determined  to  build 
249 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


a church  and  monastery  for  the  use  of  the 
Dominican  friars,  and  a site  was  selected  near 
the  Cathedral.  It  was  expected  that  the  pro- 
posed edifice  would  be  built  with  money  con- 
tributed by  the  people,  but  the  result  of  the 
first  effort  was  not  reassuring,  as  only  two  and 
a half  dollars  were  found  on  the  collection 
plates.  The  friars,  however,  were  not  to  be 
discouraged,  and  they  started  out  on  a cam- 
paign which  brought  generous  gifts,  not  only 
from  wealthy  Mexicans  but  a large  contri- 
bution from  the  King  of  Spain.  The  church 
and  convent  were  built.  They  are  of  im- 
mense proportions  and  cost  a fabulous 
amount.  Some  idea  of  their  dimensions  may 
be  obtained  from  the  statement  that  four 
buildings  the  size  of  Westminster  Abbey 
could  be  accommodated  on  the  ground  cov- 
ered by  the  church  and  its  convent.  Owing 
to  the  thickness  of  the  walls  the  church  has 
withstood  many  earthquake  shocks,  though 
the  statues  have  sometimes  toppled  over. 

It  was  in  connection  with  this  church  that 
the  Dominicans  opened  the  first  drug  store 
and  dispensary  in  this  new  land.  Its  library 
was  ranked  among  the  greatest  in  the  country. 
Whenever  the  Governor  of  the  state  attended 

250 


INTERIOR  OF  SANTO  DOMINGO  CHURCH,  OAXACA 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


mass  he  was  assigned  a high  seat  in  the  chan- 
cel near  the  altar.  Indeed,  there  are  persons 
still  living  in  Oa.xaca  who  frequently  saw 
Benito  Juarez,  afterward  President  of  the 
republic,  occupying  this  chair  during  his 
term  as  Governor  of  the  state. 

In  1865  the  French  army  under  Marshall 
Bazaine  captured  Oa.xaca,  and  the  Santo 
Domingo  Church  and  convent  were  converted 
into  barracks.  The  gold  decorations  were 
removed  and  the  high  altar  of  elaborately 
carved  and  gilded  wood,  enriched  with  oil 
paintings,  was  partially  destroyed.  The  walls 
to  this  day  carry  the  marks  of  cannon  balls. 
Following  the  fall  of  the  Intervention  the 
Dominicans  were  expelled  from  the  country; 
still  the  convent  proper  is  used  as  barracks 
by  the  federal  garrison. 

A few  years  ago  the  Bishop  of  the  diocese 
of  Oaxaca  obtained  permission  from  Presi- 
dent Diaz  to  restore  the  church.  It  should 
be  added  that  since  the  adoption  of  the  Con- 
stitution of  1857  all  churches  in  Mexico  are 
the  property  of  the  government,  but  such  as 
are  necessary  for  worship  are  leased  to  the 
church  authorities  for  a term  of  ninety-nine 
years,  without  further  cost  than  repairs.  It 

253 


HISTORIC  CHURCHES  IN  MEXICO 


is  against  the  Laws  of  Reform  for  the  church 
to  hold  property  except  for  actual  worship. 

The  Santo  Domingo  Church,  since  its 
restoration,  is  considered  the  handsomest  and 
richest  in  the  republic.  A genealogical  tree 
of  the  House  of  David  is  traced  on  the  vaulted 
ceiling.  From  the  tree,  running  along  the 
center,  project  branches  among  the  golden 
leaves  of  which  may  be  seen  figures  repre- 
senting the  lineal  line  of  David.  The  same 
design  is  carried  out  on  the  ceiling  near  the 
main  entrance.  A figure  of  the  Most  Holy 
Virgin  occupies  the  central  position.  From 
the  branches  depend  bunches  of  clustering 
grapes.  Between  the  leaves  of  gold  appear 
busts  of  thirty-four  figures  which  diminish  in 
size  till,  at  the  apex,  only  faces  are  discern- 
ible. The  frescoing  throughout  is  superb. 


254 


THE  'TREE  OE  DAVID  ON  CEILING  OF  SANTO 
DOMINGO.  OAXACA 


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